What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful! A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems …a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!…

The Duomo in Milan

The crown of spires

The Duomo is arguably Milan’s most famous monument and attracts millions of visitors every year. The ornate interior is nothing short of breathtaking but before you step inside, explore the elaborate exterior, with its sculptures, columns and a roof that bursts into a crown of spires, each topped by a unique statue.

The elaborate spires and arches of the Duomo's façade

The best way to admire the Duomo’s impressive exterior is to do the roof-climb – or you could simply take the elevator! The path winds its way around the upper levels, offering visitors magnificent close-ups of the intricate stone sculptures, spires, gargoyles and statues. The close-ups and the views across Milan and of the nearby Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II are absolutely stunning.

Statues atop the spires

The sun peeks through the spires

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II seen through the spires

A stairway takes visitors to the rooftop where they can sit and enjoy the views of the spires – look for the polychrome Madonna statue atop the highest spire (at a dizzying height of 109 meters or roughly 360 feet). If it’s a clear day, I recommend doing the roof-climb just before sunset. It’s a magical experience to see the pinnacles and statues bathed in the orangy-pink glow from the sun.

The roof of the Duomo

Away above, on the lofty roof, rank on rank of carved and fretted spires spring high in the air, and through their rich tracery one sees the sky beyond. … (Up on) the roof…springing from its broad marble flagstones, were the long files of spires, looking very tall close at hand, but diminishing in the distance…We could see, now, that the statue on the top of each was the size of a large man, though they all looked like dolls from the street… They say that the Cathedral of Milan is second only to St. Peter’s at Rome. I cannot understand how it can be second to anything made by human hands. – Mark Twain

Mark Twain’s spirited description of the Duomo’s exterior inspired me to spend more time to explore this architectural wonder. The crown of spires certainly took my breath away.

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The spires of the Duomo is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

A delicious cava under the porticoes of Cal Sastre

What: Fine-dining at a small medieval village in the Garrotxa region of Catalonia.

Where: Cal Sastre restaurant, Santa Pau.

Notes: Santa Pau is a sleepy medieval village in the Garrotxa Volcanic region of Catalonia, north of Barcelona. The village is tiny but there are a variety of reasons that make a visit absolutely worthwhile: its medieval porticoes, alleys and arches; its 15th century Gothic church; and one of the finest culinary gems in the region: Cal Sastre.

I first visited Cal Sastre during the #InCostaBrava blog trip in May 2011. We had spent the morning at arguably one of the best restaurants in the world, El Bulli, where we had the opportunity to meet Ferran Adriá and taste some of his world famous cuisine. From El Bulli, we made our way to the Garrotxa Volcanic region and stopped at Santa Pau, where we were led on a walking tour that ended at the porticoes of Cal Sastre.

What followed was an unforgettable lunch consisting of the best wild mushroom cannelloni I’ve ever had and an equally superb Crema Catalana. The contrast between the cutting-edge cuisine at El Bulli and the wholesome goodness of traditional Catalan fare at Cal Sastre couldn’t have been greater! Needless to say, it was a culinary experience I won’t easily forget.

Santa Pau

The highlight of the meal was the wild mushroom cannelloni, topped with a sprinkling of crushed black truffles and pistachio nuts. The rich flavours of the wild mushrooms and cream combined superbly with the soft, smooth texture of the cannelloni. Each mouthful felt like a spoonful of heaven and I greedily swept through three whole servings!

The heavenly cannelloni

I returned to the Costa Brava in July to explore more of the region and I made sure I had ample time for another round of heaven at Cal Sastre. I was welcomed with a big hug and a delicious cava. After consulting with Jesús, the proprietor, I ordered the cannelloni, tuna tataki with trout caviar and the steak with morel sauce. The cannelloni was just as good as the first time but I limited myself to a single serving this time around! The tuna tataki was incredibly fresh and blended beautifully with the slightly salty caviar. A pinch of wasabi was sufficient to complete the dish.

Tuna tataki with trout caviar

The steak soon followed, complemented by a gorgeous red wine from the Montsant region (Clos del Gos 2009/Montsant/grenache, samso & syrah). The meat was very tender and juicy, grilled to perfection (medium, just the way I like my steaks) and served with a creamy morel sauce and green asparagus. Absolutely stunning! The morel sauce was superb but the springy texture and rich flavour of the meat and the way it was expertly cooked took centre-stage. It was another phenomenal dining experience at Cal Sastre!

The steak with morel sauce

I highly recommend Cal Sastre to anyone passing through this part of Catalonia. Drop by for an unforgettable meal or stay for a few days – the proprietor, Jesús, has a rather quirky hotel (a must see, to be honest!) in the village. You’ll love it!

Hotel Cal Sastre

Note: my first trip to Costa Brava was part of the #InCostaBrava blog trip organised by the Costa Brava Tourism Board. As always, all views expressed in this post are mine.

Culinary Journey: Cal Sastre in Santa Pau is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Dokkum - one of the towns of the Elfstedentocht (image courtesy of Thea Sijtsma)

It’s that time of the year again, when the thermometer hanging outside my window shows a lower reading than the display on my freezer. When I first moved to the Netherlands more than 20 years ago, one of the first things that caught my attention was the Dutch people’s preoccupation with ice. As soon as the first frost arrives, you can almost literally feel the excitement build up. The media joins in with vigour and if the frost continues, so does the frequency of weather updates whilst the discussions about the condition of the ice in the rivers, lakes and canals across the country gain momentum. The reason: ice-skating is the national winter sport – the large number of speed-skating medals the Dutch have amassed at the Winter Olympics only confirms this. But this is only the start of the Dutch winter frenzy!

The ‘Elfstedentocht’

As temperatures stay below the freezing point, you’ll soon find people out on their skates and the media is flooded with images of ice-skating fever from around the country. Technical terms like ‘black ice’ (describing the quality of the ice) become commonplace. Soon, all eyes are focused on the province of Friesland, home of the (in)famous ‘Elfstedentocht‘ or the Eleven Cities Tour. The ‘Elfstedentocht’ is the world’s longest speed-skating competition, with a course that winds 200km along frozen lakes, rivers and canals and past eleven historic Frisian towns. The competition is held only when strict conditions are met, such as the thickness of the ice along the entire 200km course – the last Elfstedentocht was held in 1997. Each ‘Elfstedentocht’ is preceded by a period of intense speculation and once the start-shot is sound, it’s met with something akin to national hysteria. The past winners were hailed as national heroes. As I write this, the ‘Elfstedentocht’ commission is busy planning the next edition, which, barring a premature thaw, could possibly be held this weekend. The name is on everyone’s lips and not an hour goes by without a mention of it on the radio or television.

Set against a decor of quintessentially Dutch winter scenes (think snowy fields, frozen canals, quaint villages and windmills), participating in or standing at the sidelines of the Elfstedentocht is an extraordinary experience for both locals and visitors alike.

Ice-skating on the canals of Amsterdam

Ice-skating fever hits the country as soon as the authorities give the green light for enthusiasts to venture out onto the ice. In my town, that means one thing: getting your skates out for a fun afternoon out on the frozen canals of Amsterdam.

Amsterdam winter scenes: bicycles, canal mansions and people out on the ice!

Canal boats are barred from passing through selected canals, such as the Keizersgracht, and that’s where you’ll find Amsterdammers out on their skates.

Out on the Keizersgracht

Amsterdammers come out in full force with their friends and families to enjoy the cold weather and a fun afternoon on ice-skates!

A group of friends out on the ice

A mother takes her baby out for a err... skate!

Mum on skates and her child in a sled (with hot choco!). Sweet!

Canal boat landings double in the winter as benches for the skaters to get geared up for the ice!

Getting ready for the ice!

The frozen Keizersgracht

For visitors, it’s a special treat to witness these winter scenes in the UNESCO World Heritage listed Amsterdam city centre. If this frosty period continues, expect more activities on the ice such as speed-skating competitions, marathons and festivals!

The Dutch winter frenzy is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Westminster Abbey is one of the London landmarks that I always think takes an entire day to itself. I know some people ‘do’ it in an hour and a bit, but it is the sort of place that richly repays a more leisurely, lingering visit. And there’s far more to it than it being simply where Wills and Kate tied the knot!

Westminter Abbey (image courtesy of slurm)

Originally a monastic church (founded by Edward the Confessor, though none of his building survives), it became the coronation church of the English monarchs; only two since 1066 have not been crowned here, Edward V and VIII – and that’s because they weren’t crowned at all (Edward V was one of the ‘Princes in the Tower’ who disappeared mysteriously and Edward VIII abdicated to marry Wallis Simpson). It’s not surprising then that it holds the tombs of many English kings and nobility; but it also fulfils part of the role of the French Pantheon, with Poet’s Corner commemorating English writers.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (image courtesy of Herry)

Most visitors head there for its history – the tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the Coronation Chair (now minus the Stone of Scone though, which has been returned to Scotland). But there is also a huge amount of art history in the Abbey – as well as some oddities. I’ve mixed them up together in this article; I’ve also suggested some ways you can link your visit with other nearby monuments and sights, for instance going on to the National Gallery or Charing Cross or across the road to Westminster Hall.

By the way, the monuments are actually quite a good way to acquaint yourself with the evolution of western art, from the Middle Ages through to the present day.

You can quite easily follow the changes in taste – medieval kings lying in state, formal and linear; the Renaissance tombs, more realistic, showing their inhabitants reclining or kneeling; the eighteenth century with its weeping angels and figures of death with his scythe, and often with symbols taken from real life – cannons, telescopes, ships; and even modern works, such as the stained glass window commemorating the airmen of the Battle of Britain.

Westminster Abbey (image courtesy of Bruchez)

Here is my guided tour of Westminster Abbey:

• As you come into the Abbey you’ll see the great vault that covers the nave. People will often tell you that medieval architects were anonymous – but this one certainly wasn’t; it’s the work of Henry Yevele, started in 1362. We know a lot about Yevele; he worked at Canterbury Cathedral and on several of the king’s castles and palaces, and he also built the amazing roof at Westminster Hall, just across the road. So as you go out of the Abbey, take another look at the vault; and then, if you can get on a tour of the Palace of Westminster, you’ll be able to compare his other great work with this.
• The painting of Richard II that hangs at the west end of the Abbey is something many visitors miss. Richard was a great patron of the arts, which he used to promote his concept of sacred kingship. Politically, it was a failure – he was deposed by Henry IV and died in suspicious circumstances not much later on – but artistically, it created the most elegant and beautiful art of the English middle ages. He was also a patron of the poet Chaucer. You can compare this painting to his tomb effigy (also in the Abbey), then walk up the road to the National Gallery to see the Wilton Diptych, a tiny gem-like painting of the king with his patron saints and choirs of angels.
• The royal effigies in the cathedral museum are an incredible witness to history; they were not intended to decorate the tomb, but were placed on top of the coffin for the royal funeral. Again there’s a comparison to be made; Edward III’s funeral effigy has the drooping mouth of an old man killed by a stroke (and originally had eyebrows made out of dogs’ hair) – but his fine tomb effigy shows the mature king in his pride, with flowing hair and sad dignity.
• There are only three competitors for the prize of best English Perpendicular Gothic – Gloucester cathedral cloister, King’s College Chapel and the wonderful Chapel of Henry VIIhere in the Abbey. This is certainly the most fanciful of the three, with pendant bosses like stalactites and the most complex tracery in its vault – and the outside, with its pinnacles and golden weather vanes, is also exceptional. Henry VII was a king who stood at the frontiers of the middle ages and the Renaissance and it’s quite fitting that while the chapel is the last flourish of Gothic, his tomb and effigy should be by an Italian artist, Pietro Torrigiano, who had studied with Michelangelo (and reputedly smacked the senior artist one on the nose during a dispute). You can see how realistic the figure is compared to earlier tombs – the drapery looks real, the face is a naturalistic portrait (the tomb of Margaret Beaufort, Henry’s mother, is also by Torrigiano). Look out for the heraldic badges that decorate the chapel – the daisy or Marguerite (for Margaret), the Beaufort portcullis, the lions of England and fleur de lis of France, and Edward IV’s badge of the falcon with padlock
  

  Henry VII's chapel (image courtesy of Herry)

• Of course you want to see the Coronation Chair. But it’s just a chair, albeit a very ornate medieval one. The thing I really love about it though, is the set of little lions that support it. Now the chair dates from 1297, but the lions were only added in 1727 as replacements for ones that were a couple of hundred years older. But oh my goodness don’t they look disgruntled! They certainly want you to think they’ve been oppressed by the massive oak weight of the chair for more than just a couple of centuries.
• The effigy of Eleanor of Castile is a lovely work by William Torel, goldsmith, dating from 1291. Torel made it by casting a bronze figure by the lost-wax technique, then gilding it; the sculpture is noble and magnificent. Torel actually made two – one for the cathedral in Lincoln where Eleanor died, and this one for where she is buried. Along the way, her heartbroken widower Edward I erected Eleanor Crosses where her body rested – you can see a replica of the original at Charing Cross just up the road. Ironically, Edward has no effigy at all – just a plain marble tomb. Torel also made the effigy for Henry III.
• Newton’s tombis a magnificent creation of the Enlightenment to contrast with the medieval work you’ve seen elsewhere. Little boys use the telescope and play with the prisms. Does the globe look a bit strange? That’s because it’s a celestial globe showing the zodiac, not the earth – and a figure of Astronomy sits on top of it
  

  Newton's tomb (image courtesy of Herry)

• In the north aisle, don’t miss the tiny gravestone of Shakespeare’s contemporary Ben Jonson, with its inscription: ‘O rare Ben Jonson’. Its small size is explained by the fact that he was buried standing up – to save paying for a larger space.
• The West Front of the Abbey is one of my favourite London fakes. It’s not medieval at all, even though it looks it. It was in fact designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor and Christopher Wren, whose other works are uncompromisingly modern (like St Paul’s Cathedral, for instance). If you want to see a real medieval façade, look at the north entrance, opposite St Margaret’s church, and you’ll see the difference.
• Elizabeth I, if you ask me, got the short straw when they handed out Renaissance art. Her grandfather Henry VII got a magnificent tomb by the Italian, Torrigiano; she got a work by Flemish artist Maximilian Colt which, while majestic, and probably realistic, certainly doesn’t show her at her best. A hook nose, a sour frown and a double chin. She also has to share her grave with her half-sister, Mary I. Since Mary imprisoned Elizabeth and might well have considered having her executed, I don’t think either of them would have been too keen on the tomb-share.
• Much cuter is the monument Colt made for Sophia Rosula Stuart, the baby daughter of James I – a little cradle. He also made the memorial for her sister Mary Stuart, who died at just two and a half. Both of them are in the north aisle of Henry VII’s Chapel.
• Heraldic beasts come in all sizes and shapes – the porcupine at the feet of Lady Frances Sidney is my favourite (in St Paul’s chapel), bristling with real spikes in blue and gold – though the ferocious red lion on the tomb of Mary Queen of Scots runs it close.
• Don’t miss the chapter house, with its single pillar supporting the roof and fine medieval tile pavement. Look particularly at the lovely crisp leaves of the capitals, delicate but decisive carving. This chapter house, incidentally, has a place in the history of English democracy – the first King’s Councils were held here, before moving across the way to the Palace of Westminster
  

  Chapter house (image courtesy of Duncan)

• I was in two minds about whether to mention the Cosmatesque pavement, because it is apparently quite often invisible. It’s highly unusual, because the Cosmati family of masons worked in Rome and southern Italy, and you hardly ever see their marble inlay work anywhere else. Henry III brought the master Odericus from Rome to create this masterpiece – it’s a strictly geometrical pavement, designed around a quincunx – five linked roundels. It bears an inscription which makes it quite clear that it’s a microcosm, a symbolic representation of the universe; weirder and more convoluted than anything you’ll find in the Da Vinci Code (which leaves it out)!
• Look out for the pun in the Islip chapel. Abbot Islip built it as a chantry where prayers would be said for his soul, and he decorated it with his rebus, a play on words – it shows an eye and a ‘slip’, a small twig or branch, giving ‘eye-slip’, his name. But there’s a second one, as well, on the lintel – a little man falling out of a tree – ‘I slip!’ I bet the good abbot did cryptic crosswords.

By the way, please don’t call Westminster Abbey a cathedral. It’s actually a royal peculiar – that is, a place of worship that falls under the monarch’s jurisdiction and doesn’t belong to a diocese, with the status of a collegiate church. It was originally the church of a monastery and was only ever a cathedral for ten years, from 1540 to 1550. If you want to see a cathedral, you’ve got two choices – St Paul’s is the cathedral of the Anglican diocese of London, while a little closer to the Abbey, Westminster Cathedral is the church of the Roman Catholic diocese of Westminster.

If you are planning to visit Westminster Abbey and want a convenient hotel, you may wish to choose from a range of contemporary central London hotels which are only a short tube or taxi ride away.

This post was brought to you in partnership with London Hotels Insight.

A guided tour of Westminster Abbey is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Velvet moments: travel photo – fields of tulips in Holland is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Velvet moments: travel photo – Noordwijk beach sunset is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Countryside in Cornwall (image courtesy of Nellie Windmill)

When it comes to food it’s probably fair to say that we’d associate Cornwall with its famous crimped pasty, clotted cream ices dripping down a cone, waist busting cream teas and pilchards from Newlyn. All of this is indeed true, and wonderful (and not so wonderful) examples of the Cornish classics that can be found all round this beautiful peninsula county. However, in recent years a food renaissance has been quietly building in Cornwall with quality eateries opening up all over the Duchy.

Rick Stein & the Cornish foodie revolution

One of the names that inevitably comes to mind when talking about this change in the perception of Cornwall as a food destination is Rick Stein. Of course Rick Stein is not the be all and end all of this foodie revolution and there are many that would argue that there are plenty of local chefs who have been doing great things with local ingredients for years. But it’s fair to say it’s taken a couple of high profile TV chefs to shine the gourmand’s spotlight on Cornwall, giving other excellent chefs and eating establishments the exposure they deserve and driving standards up across the county.

Surrounded by sea on three sides it’s unsurprising that many of the best places to eat centre around fish and seafood but look around and there are some real gems that might just take you by surprise. We’ve had the pleasure of eating at a number of incredible Cornish restaurants and with a little help from our friend Lee Trewhela, Arts and Leisure Editor at the West Briton, Cornish Guardian and Cornishman, we’ve put together a smorgasbord of our ten favourite eating places in Cornwall.

The Ultimate Foodies Guide to Cornwall

Serving modern European and excelling in fish dishes, Restaurant Nathan Outlaw at the St Enodoc Hotel, Rock is the only 2 Michelin Star restaurant in Cornwall and deservedly so. Nathan Outlaw is one the UK’s top chefs and currently runs two restaurants at the St Enodoc Hotel, both of which offer simple and contemporary dishes centred around exquisite fish and seafood dishes. For the full, formal 2 Michelin starred experience then booking early at Restaurant Nathan Outlaw is a must. The set tasting menu changes frequently and is driven by locally caught seafood and beautiful Cornish produce. It’s also worth splashing out and taking the wine flight with the tasting menu as the sommelier Damon always marries the flavours perfectly and has a relaxed, engaging way of introducing the wines at table so that non wine buffs can understand his thinking behind the pairings. With a tasting menu at £75 and the wine flight at £65 for a 2 Michelin star experience it really is incredible value for money.

No. 6 Padstow

Another restaurant nearby that prides itself in creating unpretentious dishes using the best in local produce and serving up food that makes you smile is Paul Ainsworth at No 6 in Padstow. Alongside the great food is an admirable philosophy that fine dining should be available to everyone – they welcome children and do not have a dress code, which definitely gives it a friendly, relaxed feel. Set in a Georgian townhouse with contemporary décor this is a small restaurant that offers fantastic value for money. The bread here is a particular speciality as is the use of humble ingredients, such as ox cheek, lambs liver, and mackerel, with the kitchen employing modern cooking techniques that really unlock their great flavours and textures. Starters come in at around £10, mains £20 and desserts £8. The express lunch menu is excellent value for money with two courses for £13, three courses for £17 or three courses and wine flight at £35. Big things are expected of Paul, who has also taken over Rojano’s In The Square, a great Italian in the heart of Padstow.

The first thing to note about The Driftwood at Portscatho is its dramatic cliff-top location on the Roseland Peninsula, with breath taking views over Gerrans Bay… and then there’s the incredible food. Head Chef Chris Eden, who is a bonafide Cornishman, has rightly received a Michelin Star and is now the only other current restaurant in Cornwall to hold one alongside Nathan Outlaw. Chris is a quite brilliant chef who is passionate about locally-sourced food. All the wonderful fish and shellfish is sourced from Cornish waters and the meat is locally reared – the boeuf en daube is melt-in-the-mouth magnificence personified. Expect dishes such as steamed brill, sea beet, spaghetti and truffle sabayon or John Dory with leeks and Jerusalem artichoke purée followed by prune and Armagnac soufflé with Earl Grey ice cream. It’s great to see that without compromising on style and a relaxed atmosphere children get the same quality treatment and food as the adults and early suppers can be prepared for them.

Seafood at Barclay House

Another modern British restaurant worth a mention is Barclay House at Looe where quiet wonders are being served up by head chef Benjamin Palmer who has just been awarded ‘Chef of the Year 2011′ by Cornwall Life magazine. Barclay House is set up on the hillside overlooking the fishing harbour and has also picked up a Taste of the West Gold Award and South West Restaurant of the Year 2010 for its simple, inspiring dishes created using local produce. Value for money here is exceptional with a six course taster menu offering Looe scallops, local venison loin and grilled lemon sole for only £35. Don’t be fooled by the simple menu; the taste and presentation elevates these humble sounding dishes to another level.

A newbie on the Cornish foodie scene is Austell’s at Carlyon Bay. The food is cleverly prepared and beautifully presented European bistro food and the atmosphere in the restaurant is relaxed and informal. The kitchen opens onto the restaurant so you can see the chefs at work which is always a treat. The food itself is creative and imaginative with some risk taking flavour combinations made from fresh local ingredients where ever possible. Quail consommé and dumplings with Scotch egg, celeriac remoulade and hazelnut mayonnaise; fillet of line caught mackerel warm potato salad, slow roasted tomatoes, and basil oil; dark chocolate crème brûlée with sour cherry compote, honeycomb and passion fruit sorbet to name but a few of the delectable delights on the menu. The home baked poppy seed bread is also really rather special and at £27.50 for 2 courses or £32.50 for 3 courses this new restaurant is on a par with some top restaurants but at a fraction of the cost.

The Wheelhouse

One Cornish eatery that is practically impossible to get a table at is The Wheelhouse in Falmouth. Tucked down a tiny slip of an alleyway off Church Street (the main shopping drag) this modest, shellfish joint has been open since late 2009 and has racked up a plethora of rave reviews. The menu is wonderfully simple: mussels, scallops, crab or prawns, lobster and native oysters. Dishes are designed to share; mussels for two come in at £11 and six succulent scallops for £9. To prevent ruining your clothes you get a fetching little apron and a set of crackers with the inevitable mess-making whole crab. The fish is all Cornish, harbour fresh and served in clam like metal dishes with a side of skinny chips, salad and chive butter. The décor is really informal with stripped wood floors, junk shop furniture, candles and fairy lights. All in all a really delightful experience but you absolutely must book in advance, especially if you fancy one of their now famous paella nights which get booked up months in advance.

Porthminster Beach Café in St Ives is already a favourite with the national media and visiting arty types and it’s no surprise as its beach location is second to none with views across St Ives Bay to the Tate Modern. With such a glorious outlook, reasonable prices and informal atmosphere seafood has never tasted so good. Known for its Mediterranean and Asian seafood cuisine some of the produce used in the preparation of the dishes comes direct from the cafe’s garden and the nearby coastal path – look out for the wild mustard, penny wort, nettles, raspberries, wild sorrel and rock samphire to name a few. The café is also open daily for homemade patisserie and excellent coffee from the St Ives Small Batch Coffee Roasting Company.

Gurnard's Head

Possibly the best dining pub in Cornwall, the Gurnard’s Head at Zennor is a firm favourite with us. The location is wonderful, set on a remote bend on the coastal road between Zennor and St Just it feels as though you are stepping into a Poldark novel, especially on a blowy autumn evening. The pub is warm and welcoming with a log fire and well stocked bar boasting some excellent ales, whiskeys, sherries and wines. To the other side of the entrance is the equally warm and comfortable dining area bathed in an atmospheric low light that lends itself to a relaxed and intimate dining experience. As you would expect most of the produce is locally sourced and the food is hearty, refined and packed full of flavour. The short, fresh and seasonal menu changes every day depending on what is brought to the back door or what the chefs feel is at its seasonal best. In Winter you might get Fish Soup with Rouille or in summer, a Ceviche of Sea Bass alongside foraged leaf salads. On colder days you can finish off your meal curled up on a sofa with a sherry or if the summer sun is high in the sky you can sit out in the large garden. With prices ranging from £6.50 for a starter and £12.50-£16.50 for a main The Gurnard’s Head is in our estimation the best value eatery in Cornwall.

It used to be that finding a good curry in Cornwall was an impossible feat… unless you knew about Yak and Yeti in Truro. Thanks to this fantastic restaurant it is possible to sample delicious, flavourful and authentic Nepalese dishes in Cornwall, served up in a friendly environment that’s fast getting a reputation as the best of its kind in the county. They also serve a range of recognisable and excellent Indian dishes but it is the Nepalese dishes that are clearly the star here. The Gurkhali Chicken marinated in a delicately spiced sauce of tomatoes, butter, fresh green chillis, fragrant spices and cooked in a tandoori oven is to die for, as is the chef’s Babari Lamb cooked in a green masala sauce of coriander, mint, green chillies, curry leaves and spices. Delicious and hot! The staff are incredibly friendly, attentive without being overbearing and are more than happy to explain the dishes. There’s a secluded garden which is great to eat in during the summer months.

Cornish pasty (image courtesy of Hammer)

Last but not least we must save a mention for the humble Cornish pasty. With so many oggy makers around the county it’s hard to pick out the best but Sarah’s Pasty Shop in Looe edges ahead. The Sarah in the shop’s name has now retired after more than 20 years but daughter Lucy Taylor has kept it in the family and continues to run the bakery. They turn out deliciously fattening oven-fresh pies and pasties, packed with good quality ingredients, deep flavour. They also do veggie pasties such as spiced chick-pea and lentil, gluten-free, lamb and a breakfast pasty stuffed with bacon, sausage, egg, bean and mushroom. But it’s the traditional pasties the give Sarah’s its high reputation. The pasties are made with juicy chunks of Cornish beef skirt, a bit of peppery swede, wrapped in a rich lardy pastry with a side crimp and come in small, medium and large. For the ultimate taste eat on the beach out of a paper bag, but mind the seagulls!

Once you’ve had your fill of delicious food there’s nothing better than retiring to bed in one of the delightful holiday lodges in Cornwall and dreaming about your next meal.

Note: this post is brought to you in partnership with Hoburne holiday lodges.

Culinary guide to Cornwall is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Image courtsey of Dennis Messie

Some people feel that basic fuel is the only thing necessary to propel themselves down the slopes of Europe’s finest ski resorts. Fortunately there are enough of us about who want something a bit more special. As such there is a large market for fine dining at altitude. Europe is blessed with some of the best skiing in the world, and the slopes have the cuisine to match.

Les fermes de Marie

Les fermes de Marie (image courtesy of pr1001)

Megève is an idyllic French village which sits in the shadow of the awesome Mont Blanc. As with most French ski resorts, there are plenty of slope side restaurants where you can get a good simple saussise au frites, but for those looking for something a little more self indulgent, there is Les fermes de Marie. The Sibuet family has been providing fantastic holidays with some of the finest food available in the Alps for years. Today they employ Christophe Côte as their head chef, and he has been able to maintain their exceptional cuisine through the use of local produce alongside his modern cooking methods. Dishes such as the mouth watering oven roasted beef fillet topped with a rustic ragout of Morel mushrooms exhibits flair alongside an ability to replicate traditional regional dishes.

Les fermes de Marie delivers a wonderfully varied menu of fairly traditional French fare, with a welcome modern twist. Thanks to a laid back atmosphere the dress code is relaxed, which means you can come straight off the slopes in your ski jackets and salopettes and fill up with some truly fine food!

La Maison Pic

Dining with Anne-Sophie Pic (image courtesy of vincent)

If you don’t mind heading out of the mountains for the evening, then La Maison Pic has to be worth a trip. Situated approximately 60 miles from Grenoble, this three Michelin starred restaurant is worth driving for. Chef Anne-Sophie Pic is the first woman to be awarded three of the famous French stars in 56 years, which should tell you just how good this restaurant is. Expect attention to detail and a subtlety of flavour that will leave you in awe of this groundbreaking chef.

Le 1947 at The Cheval Blanc

Heading back into the French Alps, the prestigious 1947 at The Cheval Blanc, named after the finest year of the famous Bordeaux first growth, offers an incredible fine dining experience in Courchevel. The award winning Chef Yannick Alleno presides over a wonderfully diverse menu which will beguile all those who can stretch to the $95 set menu and beyond.

C21 at Champery

c21 Champery (image courtesy of gourmet classic)

A mere hop, ski and a jump over the border from France takes you to Switzerland, and into some wonderful skiing territory. Satisfyingly, there is no need to lower your expectations when it comes to the food either. The jaw droppingly beautiful village of Champery is home to C21, a wonderfully modern restaurant where molecular cuisine is the order of the day. Combining ingredients previously untried by most, Chef Denis Martin creates dishes which leave you speechless. The Cauliflower pannacotta with Gruyere cheese, Bellota ham and truffle oil is a surprise success of epic proportions.

Add to the ultra modern cuisine an extensive Malt list and a wine list that has been awarded a Michelin Grappe, and you have what is without doubt one of the finest restaurants in the whole of Switzerland.

Stube at Wulfenia Hotel

Wulfenia Stube (image courtesy of derskiguide)

Austria is not a country normally known for its haute cuisine, but the Austrian Alps are an exception. With great snow records, Austria attracts a wide spread of skiers and there is clearly a market for fine dining given the amount of excellent restaurants that can be found lining the slopes!

Top of the pile must be the Stube, situated in The Wulfenia Hotel at the Nassfeld ski resort. This is the highest two star Michelin restaurant in Austria, and is worth the climb for anyone interested in gourmet eating! With an excellently priced $110 taster menu, and a wonderful wine list extending to over 900 different bottles, this is a place to come back to time and time again. The restaurant is run by the well known Arnold Pucher, who has been awarded 94 points in the A la carte 2012th.

Skiing and eating should go hand in hand. Europe’s ski resorts are littered with fine dining, and you will be particularly spoilt for choice when in the Alps. If you are a gourmand on the slopes, then you might just want to stay in the mountains forever!

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with Ellis Brigham.

A gourmand on the slopes is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

When I received an invitation from Gloria, a good friend who lives in a charming Tuscan village, to participate in the Italy Blogging Roundtable by writing about “Gifts” from Italy, I didn’t have to think twice about accepting the invitation and coming up with a topic: Tuscany of course! To me, Tuscany is a chest of wonderful gifts to the world. If you’re looking for reasons to visit Tuscany, the ‘gifts’ listed below will hopefully convince you to book that ticket!

Historic towns

Florence steals the show with its glorious architecture, historic monuments and world-class museums. Other popular towns include Siena, with its breathtaking square, the Piazza del Campo; San Gimignano, the world’s first ‘Manhattan’; Pisa, with its iconic leaning tower; the ancient hilltop town of Volterra; and Montepulciano, Montalcino and Pienza in the heart of one of Tuscany’s main wine producing regions. My advice is to hire a car or use public transportation as this will give you many opportunities to explore the province at your own leisure and avoid the day-trippers. It’ll also allow you to discover many smaller towns and villages and immerse yourself in Tuscan life.

Pienza

Dreamy landscapes

Anyone who’s been to Tuscany will undoubtedly gush about the dreamy landscapes: gentle rolling hills, expansive fields of sunflowers, cypress tree-lined country lanes and vineyards that stretch as far as the eye can see. The landscapes, settlements, weather and light collude to make Tuscany a photographer’s dream! The best areas to view the quintessentially Tuscan landscapes are in the Chianti (the region between Florence and Siena), the Maremma and the Montepulciano-Montalcino axis.

A typical Tuscan landscape

Cuisine

My love affair with Tuscany started with a simple plate of spaghetti aglio e olio peperoncino (olive oil, garlic and peppers) in a small trattoria in Florence. Since then, I’ve explored a wide array of Italian cuisine (and I still have much more to discover). It amazes me each time how such seemingly simple dishes can taste so beautiful. Some of my best foodie experiences were in Tuscany, like the sublime pappa al pomodoro (bread and tomato soup) and the succulent vitello arrosto (roast veal) I had in Siena; or that heavenly pizza layered with lardo di colonnata (pig fat made in a white marble vat with garlic and herbs/spices) in Ristorante Lo Zenzero just north of Pisa; or one of the juiciest sirloin steaks I’ve ever had sprinkled with fresh black truffles in a Paganico; or the time I stayed at an agriturismo where the lady of the house served us bread soaked in red wine and topped with sugar! Oh, and then there’s the ice-cream, in particular the excellent gelato in Pisa! Tuscan food is simply a precious gift that I’ll accept with open arms, any time! If you’re interested in Tuscan cuisine, I highly recommend attending a cooking course, like the ones offered by Cuoche in Vacanza.

Pasta with black truffles

Pizza topped with lardo di colonnata

Art & Design

Widely recognised as the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, Tuscany is home to some of the most priceless art treasures on the planet. Many of the most famous artworks by the likes of Michelangelo and Donatello can be found in Florence’s museums, such as the Uffizi, but look further and you’ll discover much more art and design. Simply pop into one of the many stunning churches, monasteries, villas and farmhouses to admire and feel inspired by Tuscan art. From the magnificent Charterhouse in Calci to the Piaggio Museum (the home of the Vespa scooter), there’s something for everyone.

The Calci Charterhouse

A design Vespa

Festivals

Festivals in Tuscany are a true delight. Many of these festivals and events can trace their roots back to medieval times and the Tuscans proudly uphold this heritage right down to the smallest details. One of the most exciting experiences is watching the Palio horse race in Sienna’s Piazza del Campo every July and August. The Viareggio Carnevale (in February and March), with its massive paper-maché floats, is fun for the whole family. The Volterra medieval festival and the Bravio delle Botti, a fun barrel-rolling event in Montepulciano (both take place in the last week of August) are other must-see events.

Flag-waving parade in Lucca

Authentic accommodation

There are several things I vividly remember from my first venture into the Tuscan countryside: the rolling landscape, the cypress trees and sunflower fields, the rustic farmhouses and the stunning villas. I soon discovered that it’s possible to stay at some of these farmhouses or in a historic villa such as the grand Villa di Corliano. Both offer an authentic Tuscan experience. I’ll always remember my stay an agriturismo where the owner spoiled us silly with heaps of fresh fruit, jams, biscotti, olives, wines and limoncello (lemon liquor) produced at his estate; or my stay in a luxurious villa in Tuscany overlooking mile after mile of vineyards with the hilltop town of Montalcino in the distance. These are wonderful experiences which no one will easily forget.

Villa Corliano

Typical products from Agriturismo Spazzavento

These are amazing gifts from Tuscany that we can all experience. What are you waiting for?

About the Italy Blogging Roundtable

The Italy Blogging Roundtable is an initiative of five Italy-based travel bloggers. Each month, the bloggers publish an Italy-related post on a specific theme. The Italy Blogging Roundtable bloggers are:

• Gloria (At Home in Tuscany)
  
• Alexandra (Arttrav)
• Jessica (Italylogue)
• Melanie (Italofile)
• Rebecca (Brigolante)

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with Paradizo.

Tuscany’s gifts to the world is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Camels at the Timanfaya NP

Lanzarote is a small volcanic island in the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Morocco. The island, part of the Canary Islands archipelago, is a popular holiday destination for Europeans who come here to bask in the sun and explore the extraordinary volcanic landscapes. From the air, Lanzarote looks like a chain of volcanic cones, an inhospitable island composed of endless fields of lava rocks but look closer and you’ll find charming white-washed villages, verdant valleys, towering cliffs, beautiful beaches and deserted coves. To help you discover the wonders of Lanzarote, I’ve created a list of ten things to see and do, which I can recommend to anyone visiting the island.

Things to see and do in Lanzarote

1. Jameos del Agua – the Jameos del Agua, is for me, one of the island’s most fascinating attractions. The Jameos is a striking combination of geology, architecture and design. The island’s most famous architect, Cesar Manrique, built a visitor centre complete with a restaurant, bar, one of the most amazing auditoriums I’ve ever seen and a museum inside what used to be a gigantic lava tube. Plan a visit in the morning to avoid the crowds. Look for the little white crabs in the cave.

The stunning pool at the Jameos del Agua

2. Timanfaya – the Timanfaya National Park is another of the island’s prime attractions. The national park consists of a series of volcanoes and massive lava fields. It’s a surreal experience driving through the park. You’ll pass volcanic cones in a multitude of red-orange-yellow-blue tints and intriguing rock formations; the scenery is simply mind-blowing! Head up to the visitor centre and watch the guide ‘create’ a geyser and other cool stunts.

The volcanic landscapes of Timanfaya NP

3. El Golfo – this is a little lagoon on the island’s west coast. The lagoon is a short walk past the rocky lava coast and you’ll be greeted by the striking jade colour of the lagoon against a backdrop of red cliffs.

El Golfo

4. El Mirador – located in the far northwestern corner of Lanzarote, El Mirador is a visitor centre built atop towering cliffs. The observation deck, 479m above sea level, features breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean, the nearby island of La Graciosa and the ancient salt plains of Las Salinas del Rio.

The view from El Mirador

5. Eat – Lanzarote is famous for its fresh seafood and peculiar potatoes. The volcanic earth churns out humongous potatoes and these are included in almost every type of Lanzarote specialties. Don’t miss the wonderfully fresh tuna, swordfish or monk fish. Restaurants I can highly recommend include La Puntilla (on the edge of Arrecife’s lovely inner harbour) and the restaurant at the Stratus winery.

Fresh grilled tuna and peppers at La Puntilla, Arrecife

Chicken and a Lanzarote potato on a volcanic grill

6. Discover Lanzarote wines – Lanzarote has a vine-growing tradition that began in the 15th century. Despite the very little rainfall, vine cultivation flourished and the island today produces excellent wines. Visit the surreal La Geria wine-producing region, at the foot of several volcanoes and learn about the unique methods used to cultivate and protect the vines at the El Grifo Wine Museum. Then try the local favourite, Malvasia, or the Moscatel at any of the nearby wineries.

The volcanic vineyards in La Geria

7. Beaches – like its neighbours, Lanzarote has a good number of beaches. Puerto del Carmen, Teguise and Playa Blanca are the island’s main beach towns. However, there are plenty of other beaches to explore around the island such as the golden sands of the Punta del Papagayo beaches and the black sand Playa Quemada. The beaches on the south side of the island tend to be better areas for swimming due to the currents.

Caleta Famara

8. Explore the towns – Lanzarote has numerous towns that are absolutely worth exploring. Remnants of Lanzarote’s colourful maritime history comes to life in the capital, Arrecife, which boasts a 16th century castle, Castillo de San Gabriel, on an islet at the mouth of the harbour. Another town that’s worth exploring is Haria. Located in the north of the island, away from the tourist hubs, Haria is a gorgeous white-washed town with a lively market every Saturday morning. Approach the town from the west for amazing views of the white houses in the valley of a thousand palms – oh yes, make sure to find out why there are so many palms in this town!

The inner harbour in Arrecife

Haria in the valley of a thousand palms

9. Get into the water – your visit shouldn’t be limited to land-based attractions. There is a great variety of things to do in the ocean, from water-sports to scuba diving, game fishing, whale watching and other marine excursions. Lanzarote is widely recognised as one of the best surfing spots in Europe – Caleta de Famara (at the foot of the spectacular cliffs of Famara) and Caleto Caballo are popular surfing spots. If you’re into windsurfing, head for the Los Cucharas beach in Costa Teguise. Game fishing enthusiasts should check with the harbour at Puerto del Carmen or Playa Blanca for excursion possibilities. For something more subdued, go on a sailing trip or book a cruise from Orzola to the islands of La Graciosa or Alegranza, or join a submarine excursion from Puerto Calero for a chance to view Lanzarote’s beautiful underwater world.

Surfers hitting the waves

10. Visit the Cactus garden (Jardin de Cactus) – built in an old quarry in the north of the island, the Jardin de Cactus is another Cesar Manrique creation. The garden, designed in the shape of an amphitheatre, houses more than 10,000 cacti from around the world as well as a multitude of beautiful volcanic stone sculptures. Go in the morning to avoid the busloads of tourists.

Cactus garden (image courtesy of threefishsleeping)

Ten things to do in Lanzarote is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Covent Garden wasn’t quite in at the start of London’s theatrical tradition – Shakespeare’s Globe for instance was south of the river and other early playhouses clustered in the East End – but it’s been the centre of London’s theatreland since the time of Charles II. Nell Gwyn acted here, it hosts the ‘actors’ church’ and you can even buy your own theatre in the market.

St Paul's Church (image courtesy of Andrew Havis)

The Royal Opera House is here, English National Opera isn’t far and there are no fewer than thirteen theatres within walking distance of Covent Garden market.

Architect Inigo Jones was commissioned by  Francis Russell, the Earl of Bedford, to develop the area. He started with an Italian-style arcaded piazza centred on St Paul’s church – the earliest Renaissance square in England and the model for later London squares which adopted the layout (though not the arcades).

St Paul’s is known as ‘the actors’ church’ for its links with the profession; memorial services for actors, directors and stage crew are often held here, as well as a summer fair in aid of the Royal Theatrical Fund, at which you might spot John Nettles, Sir Donald Sinden, and other luminaries of the stage.

The church itself, though, is quite non-theatrical with its very plain, four-square Tuscan order. Apparently Russell didn’t want to spend much on the church and told Inigo Jones he’d be happy with a plain barn; whereupon Jones promised his patron ‘the handsomest barn in Europe’. However, the church does have one quite theatrical illusion to spring on the spectator – while it has a massive portico on the Covent Garden Piazza façade, the entrance is in fact on the other side, through the gardens.

Royal Opera House (image courtesy of Andrea Puggioni)

In the 18th century the theatre was still strictly controlled; Covent Garden had two competing theatres, the Drury Lane and the Royal Opera. They’re still here today, though the Royal Opera House has burned down and been replaced twice, and the current Theatre Royal Drury Lane is the fourth building on that site.

Nell Gwyn started out as an orange seller at Drury Lane, and later trod the boards here, before retiring as King Charles II’s mistress.

There’s more theatre history in Southampton Street, where several eighteenth century houses survive, with classical detailing, tall windows, and careful use of contrasting colours of brick to create architectural interest – this was still a fashionable area, and the quality of the architecture shows it. No. 27 was where David Garrick, the great Shakespearian actor, lived, conveniently located for the theatre (that wasn’t always a good thing; after a riot at the theatre in November 1755, the London crowd came here and smashed Garrick’s windows).

Several streets are still named after actors of the time – Betterton, Kean, Kemble and Macklin.

Punch & Judy (image courtesy of Eduard Diaz)

And the Punch & Judy pub in Covent Garden market commemorates the first record of a Punch & Judy show in England – noted by the diarist Samuel Pepys in 1662. There’s still a Punch & Judy show in Covent Garden, though Punch, Judy and Pretty Polly have been joined by the crocodile and the policeman since his time.

Even some of the restaurants are theatrical – Sarastro’s is one of my favourites for its insane décor. It’s a kind of cross of a theatrical props department, a Pharaoh’s tomb, and a bric a brac shop. It gets mixed reviews for the food, but I’ve always rather enjoyed a night there – you just need to bring the right friends and mix them up with a couple of G&Ts. I’m told there’s some stunning erotic art in the gents, too, though obviously have to take that on trust!

The entertainment tradition continues today with Covent Garden’s street entertainers; two hundred years ago you’d have heard street vendors’ cries and hurdy gurdy players, now there are jugglers and living statues.

But my favourite theatrical tradition is hidden away in a little shop in the market; Benjamin Pollock’s toy shop. Here you can buy all kinds of toys and particularly toy theatres, from a fiver for a cardboard Punch & Judy to £195 for a huge wooden model theatre, with all its scenery. The best of them all, for me, is the set of three centuries of the Comédie Française – staging Moliere’s Tartuffe, Beaumarchais’ Marriage of Figaro, and Victor Hugo’s Ernani. That’s a lot of theatrical history for just over £20.

After such a theatrical experience, which of the myriad hotels in Covent Garden should you choose to stay in?  It would have to be one inspired by theatrical décor – the recently-renovated Mercer Street Hotel by Radisson Edwardian.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with London Hotels Insight.

Unravelling the mysteries of theatrical Covent Garden is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Sometimes you know when you step into a place that it is holy. You feel the weight of the years, the atmosphere charged with silence and veneration; the air seems colder and thinner than in the street outside and there’s a sense of something invisible being there.

Masonic Temple (image courtesy of Neil Alderney)

I never get that feeling in Westminster Cathedral, which has the ambience of a large train station (though admittedly one where the steam trains burn incense rather than coal); or in St Paul’s, which has something of the feeling of a large bank’s head office. But the first time I went into the Masonic Temple in Great Queen Street, I felt a shiver of recognition. This was a sacred place – one that crackled with holy electricity.

It did help that I was attending a performance of Mozart’s Magic Flute – highly appropriate since his opera uses many of the symbols of Masonry and is indeed set in a temple. But the building – on the outside a piece of standard Lutyens-ish classicism – is fascinating; full of symbolism, from the Masonic Eye of God who sees all to the Egyptian pyramid and luxuriously appointed (the Grand Master at the time it was built was a son of Queen Victoria), full of massy bronze, gleaming tiles and fine wood veneers.

The Masons, long renowned for their secretive nature, now offer guided tours of the temple during the week.

Sri Swaminaryan Mandir temple (image courtesy of Nick Garrod)

A younger temple is the Sri Swaminaryan Mandir, out in suburban Neasden. It looks ancient, with its towering white spires and ornate carving, but in fact it was only begun in 1992. Inside, saffron clad priests keep the gaudily dressed deities fed; at times the shrines look like an upmarket patisserie, with bright purple wedding cakes and plates of delicacies laid out in front of the gods – the bright colours contrasting with the white marble. Bright pink light infuses one shrine; another is tinted blue. It’s sensory overload; if you come at the right time, the temple is full of the smell of cooking and ripe fruit; worshippers ring the bell at darshan (viewing of the images) as chants resound in the echoing building.

Yet also, in a way I can’t explain, it feels very English – in its openness to members of other faiths and its neatness, even the cardigans worn over saris on a nippy autumn day.

Colourful deities ISKCON (image courtesy of Romensky)

See a different spin on Hinduism at the ISKCON temple in Soho Street. Unlike the towering Mandir, this is a temple that would be easy to walk right past – it’s a room upstairs in an ordinary West End house, which contains not just the temple but also an ashram where Krishna devotees live and work.

The temple opens at half past four in the morning, when the first darshan of the day is held; though most will probably prefer to attend a little later at seven, when songs are sung to glorify Krishna and the Hare-Krishna is chanted. Lunchtime is also a popular time to visit, with worship followed by a talk on the values of the ISKCON movement– recommended for anyone interested in Indian spirituality and followed by lunch. My favourite time of day in any Krishna temple though is the evening session, held here at 9 pm; somehow singing a bhajan or two seems a natural way to prepare for rest.

Govinda’s, the temple restaurant, is one of the cheapest places to eat in London; but it’s also a way into the heart of Krishna, as all the food is vegetarian, and has been offered as prasad (a gift to the gods) before being served.

Wat Buddhapadipa (image courtesy of Jessica Mulley)

Wimbledon has a Buddhist temple, Wat Buddhapadipa, built in the Thai style (its construction was supported by the Thai government) in the middle of gardens and orchards (the gardens are open during the week, the main temple only at weekends). The temple is a delicate building with upswept wooden roofs and tiny pinnacles; inside, the colours are bright, golden statues gleaming, scenes from the Buddha’s life painted on the walls, the ceiling painted ox-blood red. Unlike the shining Neasden temple, this one feels mysterious, the dark hardly lit by the lamps around the shrines.

The nicest surprise, for me, was outside. Where other gardens have gnomes, these ones have little buddhas and bodhisattvas sitting in the rockeries.

Temple Church (image courtesy of Lawrence OP)

Finally, there’s also a “temple” of sorts for Christians – namely the aptly-named Temple Church, a gorgeous medieval church built by the Knights Templar which was recently made famous by its role in the Da Vinci Code. It’s a spectacular construction, with glossy black Purbeck marble supporting the top storey and the whole central area lit up by high windows under the wooden vault. It’s a true sanctuary and one of my favourite churches in London.

The temples weren’t planned as a tourist attraction, but they are definitely interesting places to visit – and all the people you meet in them are friendly, willing to explain their beliefs and values, even if you don’t happen to share their views. It is definitely a great idea for a rather “different” day out exploring London’s secret spiritual side.  And when you return to your accommodation, you might want to relax with a drink in the conservatory of a luxury London hotel with views over a tranquil private garden.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with London Hotels Insight.

Explore the temples of London is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

The majestic Gulfoss

Velvet moments: travel photo – Gulfoss, Iceland is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Reichstag Berlin

Berlin, the capital of Germany, is arguably one of the most intriguing cities in the world. The city played a prominent geopolitical role in the first half of the 20th century before being completely destroyed and divided into two. It then staged a remarkable comeback after the fall of the infamous Berlin Wall in 1989 and the reunification of Germany. For many years thereafter, Berlin was one big construction site as the city, fresh with a new zest, quickly reinvented itself. These days, Berlin is a cultural hub, awash with interesting and unique events and sites to satisfy even the most ambitious of travelers. Below, in true high fidelity fashion, is a list of sites, some lesser known than others, that ought to make your trip to Berlin slightly more adventurous.

1. Teufelsberg

Teufelsberg (image courtesy of Jordi Tora)

Teufelsberg, or Devil’s mountain, was quite literally built on the rubble of WWII – the rubble from the destroyed buildings in Berlin was used by the Allies to construct this artificial hill. They then built a listening post atop the hill. The building itself is a towering wreck but a guided tour of this former NSA listening station provides fascinating insights into its prominent role during the Cold War. It’s also a great opportunity to marvel at some of the funkiest graffiti I’ve ever seen.

2. Mauerpark

Mauerpark is a large park in Berlin’s fashionable Prenzlauer Berg district. Also known as ‘Wall Park’, it features a 30m stretch of the Berlin Wall (used these days by graffiti artists). The Mauerpark flea market is a mainstay of Berliners and tourists alike. The market, open every Sunday, is engulfed with vendors selling all sorts of weird and wonderful items, including curious Communist mementos. If visiting Berlin, I highly recommend visiting Mauerpark at least once.

3. Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island)

Pfaueninsel castle (image courtesy of Lilli2de)

Pfaueninsel or Peacock Island is a small island in the River Havel in southwestern Berlin. The island features exotic flora, a dreamy castle and peacocks which roam freely. The castle was constructed by a Prussian king. Later kings added the park as well as the menagerie. The island is designated a nature reserve and is part of the Palaces and Parks of Potsdam and Berlin UNESCO World Heritage Site.

4. Weinerei

When I first heard of this concept, it sounded too good to be true… especially for the wine lovers among us. The basic concept of Weinerei is that you pay a single euro ($1.35) for a glass, and drink as much wine as you like. The catch, if it can even be called that, is that at the end of the evening you simply pay what the evening was worth to you. The majority of the large selection of wines is produced in Germany. The food, typically German fare with organic ingredients, is also priced according to the honour system; 10-15 euros should get you a full meal and a few glasses of wine.

5. The Soviet War Memorial

Soviet War Memorial Treptower Park (image courtesy of Matt Bidulph)

The Soviet War Memorial is a large war memorial and military cemetery tucked away in the Treptower park. It is one of three memorials erected by the Soviets in Berlin; this one in Treptower park served as the main Soviet war memorial in East Germany. The memorial was built to commemorate the 80,000 soldiers who lost their lives in the Battle of Berlin. The memorial is impressive and is the perfect place for a tranquil afternoon stroll.

In addition, should you wish to learn more about Berlin aside from this list, a good way to do so, is to stay with a local. There are a few ways to do this, one of which is booking through either Wimdu or a similar service such as those offered by couchsurfing or hospitality clubs.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with Wimdu.

Five alternative things to do in Berlin is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

The Mas Perafita welcome party

The Cap de Creus is a rugged wind-swept peninsula in the far northeastern corner of Catalonia, not far from the border with France. A large part of the peninsula is a designated national park and is famous for its nature trails and secluded coves and inlets. There is also a variety of picturesque fishing villages and towns such as Cadaqués and Port Lligat; the latter is home to the Casa Dalí, the house of the famous artist Salvador Dalí. In the heart of the Cap de Creus, nestled high in the hills above Cadaqués is the gorgeous Mas Perafita wine estate and B&B, a lovely spot and the perfect base from which to explore the peninsula.

The family-owned Mas Perafita estate produces the award-winning Celler Martin Faixó wines and also houses five beautiful rooms for visitors looking for a tranquil retreat. The main complex, built in the 14th century and renovated in 2004, comprises the winery and cellar as well as four spacious rooms. A fifth room (my favourite) is located in the old tool-shed in the garden.

Relax in the hammock

My favourite room - in the old tool-shed

Mas Perafita is an excellent base from which to explore the Cap de Creus. The lovely town of Cadaqués is a ten-minute drive away whilst the impressive Sant Pere de Rodes abbey is fifteen minutes away. There are also a number of nature trails in the direct surroundings. Visitors to Mas Perafita can also participate in harvesting the grapes, wine-tasting, or simply laze in one of the hammocks or couches with views of the extensive vineyards and nothing but the breeze (and the estate’s dogs) to keep you company. If you’re looking for some solitude in the mountains of Cap de Creus, this is the place!

Sit and enjoy the view of Cap de Creus

The Martin Faixó family also owns a restaurant in Cadaqués: Can Rafa, which I highly recommend. Can Rafa serves local specialties like the sublime bacalao carpaccio and fresh seafood, paired with wines from their estate. My personal favourite is the fruity and aromatic Picapoll (a blend of Picapoll blanc and Moscatel d’Alexandria).

The Picapoll and the rose

The winery & B&B are open all-year-round – except during Christmas. Visit Mas Perafita for more information or bookings.

Follow Celler Martin Faixó on Twitter.

Mas Perafita: a lovely retreat in the Cap de Creus is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

The Tagus river curls around the old city of Toledo

The river Tagus can clearly be seen winding its way around the old city. In the following photo, the Alcazar (square building with the four towers) and the Cathedral (the large complex to the left of the Alcazar) can clearly be seen. The arched bridge crossing the Tagus river in the far right of the photo is the famous Alcántara Bridge that was built by the Romans.

The old city of Toledo with the Cathedral and Alcazar

Plane views: Toledo, Spain is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Dog-sledding in Lapland (image courtesy of Visit Finland)

For many of us who live in temperate climes, the dreary, rainy weather that winter brings is sufficient reason to want to pack up for an all-inclusive holiday on the beaches of a sunny, warm land. For those of us who enjoy the perks of a refreshing chill in a snowbound land, there are plenty of unique options as well. And Lapland, in Finland’s far north, crowns the list this winter.

Santa Claus, snow and huskies are probably the first things that spring to mind at the mention of Lapland’s name, but there’s much more to this diverse land than Christmas gimmicks and bearded men in red suits. Lapland’s capital, Rovaniemi, is as cosmopolitan as it gets in this icy tundra – as northern Finland’s business, cultural and educational centre, Rovaniemi is home to some of the best bars, hotels and restaurants in Lapland.

Getting around Rovaniemi is easy – as a major hub in and out of the province, it is home to Rovaniemi Airport and excellent travel links in and around the city. Sightseeing trips to more remote areas outside the city are facilitated by tour guides and although taxis are plentiful, within the city limits almost everything is best reached on foot.

If you feel like indulging in a spot of sightseeing you’ll find plenty of it in and around Rovaniemi. There are a number of fabulous Santa grottos to visit around the city and a lovely reindeer farm situated just outside Rovaniemi: Santapark lies around 8km outside of the city. You can also visit the Artikum, or Arctic Science Centre and the Rovaniemi Art Museum which specialises in contemporary Finnish as well as nordic art.

Experiencing Lapland in the winter

The highlight of a visit to Lapland in the winter is undoubtedly the experience of seeing the expansive snowy landscapes. You’ll find no shortage of tour guides offering arctic safaris so you can slip through the tundra on a snowmobile or sleigh and take in the splendour of Lapland’s unspoilt magnificence. This winter, another grand highlight awaits: the aurora borealis or the Northern Lights. Though the Northern Lights can be seen throughout the year, if it’s sufficiently dark, the 11-year cycle hits its peak this winter. That promises more opportunities to spot this spectacular natural phenomenon. Furthermore, Lapland is one of the best places in the world to view the aurora borealis in all its glory.

Aurora borealis (image courtesy of Visit Finland)

The resort of Ylläs will give you a real taste of Lappish living – situated amongst miles of pure white snow and perfect pine forests, Ylläs plays host to a huge array of winter sports and traditional Lappish bars and eateries. Famous for its cross-country and downhill skiing (being Finland’s second-largest ski resort), Ylläs offers a multitude of other fun winter activities such as husky- or reindeer safaris, snowshoeing and ice-fishing. If you’re feeling adventurous you could even take in a traditional Finnish sauna before racing outside for a few seconds of ice-swimming!

Ylläs (image courtesy of Tania Ho)

Lapland has a number of beautiful hotels that will warm the cockles of your heart after being outside in the sub-zero temperatures. The Hotel Snowflake is a stylish and cosy 4-star hotel with three beautiful restaurants specialising in local game dishes. There are a range of room types and apartments available, with some even coming equipped with their own saunas so you can warm up after a day in the snow.

Hotel Snowflake

Hotel Kieppi has a rustic, traditional charm. Its pine panelled walls echo the look of Finnish homes and the lobby’s roaring open fireplace conjures up images of sitting by it with a book and a cup of eggnog on a blustery night. The homey charm continues in the restaurant, which serves Lappish specialities.

Hotel Kieppi (image courtesy of magnaram)

The Winter Wonderland Hotel epitomises everything wonderful about Lapland – swathed with snow in the dead of winter and split into cabins and a stunning main hotel building. The hotel has a particularly festive focus, with carol singings, tobogganing and other festive events taking centre stage so if you’re thinking about taking a trip to Lapland for the holidays this could be the place for you.

Winter Wonderland Hotel

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with First Choice Holidays.

Winter adventures in Lapland is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Hotel Aigua Blava

The road from the town of Begur to Llafranc winds past some of the most beautiful villas on the Costa Brava. After several miles, a left turn in the direction of Fornells leads visitors to arguably one of the most charming hotels along the coast: Hotel Aigua Blava. Situated on a promontory, this family-run hotel is surrounded by beautiful trees and overlooks two gorgeous coves. It’s a tranquil place – worlds away from the bustle of the big beach towns – where one can truly relax and enjoy the stunning natural beauty of the Costa Brava. I’ve had the pleasure of staying there on two occasions and the serenity never failed to work its magic on me! Combined with the staff’s wonderful hospitality and some of the most delicious cuisine, I found myself promising to return each time I checked out.

The rooms are spacious and have either a balcony or a lounge deck, many with sea views. My favourite rooms are on the side of the complex overlooking a little cove.

The hotel overlooks a gorgeous cove and the blue Mediterranean

Visitors can easily spend several days or longer, just lounging at the pool, going for walks along the Costa Brava coastal trails (one of which passes right by the hotel’s doorstep) or exploring the surrounding towns like Begur, Pals and Llafranc. The days begin with a lavish breakfast, served in the dining hall that offers stunning views of the sea. In the evenings, I recommend a pre-dinner cocktail at the hotel’s romantic terrace before tucking into a gastronomic feast. The cuisine is a contemporary take on local specialties and includes sumptuous dishes like rockfish tartare with Norwegian lobster carpaccio and a suquet (stew) of prawns.

The lovely terrace where cocktails and meals are served

The delicious rockfish tartare with Norwegian lobster

Hotel Aigua Blava is a great choice for anyone who’s looking for a secluded hotel with excellent service in the heart of the Costa Brava. Relax, enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings and indulge yourself with fine cuisine. The hotel is closed from November till March.

A relaxing holiday at Hotel Aigua Blava is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Image courtesy of Garry Knight

One of the best things about Guildford – a pretty market town famous for being the resting place and inspiration for Alice in Wonderland author Lewis Carroll – is getting out and about in its local area. The town’s idyllic setting in rolling, verdant countryside makes it a good base for some of England’s best country walking… ideal for a healthy weekend break just half an hour by train from central London.

The North Downs Way is a 153 mile trail which goes through both the Surrey Hills and Kent Downs Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs). It passes just south of Guildford, past St Martha’s Church on its hill, over the expansive landscapes of the Downs and towards the valley villages of Shere and Gomshall with their fast flowing chalk streams and watercress beds. If you felt so inclined, you could follow it to Canterbury and even further, to the coast at Dover.

View from North Downs Way towards Kemsing, Kent (image courtesy of Glen)

When I took the path in early summer, clouds of butterflies drifted across St Martha’s Hill, bright copper and palest blue; one came too close, and caressed my face for a brief moment with its fluttering wings. Earlier in the year, the woods on the lower slopes of the Downs are filled with the shimmering haze of bluebells; in winter, you can tramp the hills in crunchy snow, under a sky of electric blue.

Nature isn’t the only attraction. As you head out of Guildford you’re following the pilgrims’ way that took the devout – and, as Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales remind us, the not so pious too – towards the shrine of St Thomas a Becket at Canterbury Cathedral.

St. Martha's Church (image courtesy of fiomaha)

St Martha’s is said to have been one of the stops en route (though Chaucer’s pilgrims actually took Watling Street, now the A2); an anchoress lived in a cell there at one time and the church was originally Norman, though it was much restored in Queen Victoria’s day. Another anchoress, Christine Carpenter, had a cell in the church at Shere, where the tiny quatrefoil window that allowed her to see the altar is still visible (her story is intriguing; enclosed in her cell for life, she left it to go wandering, then later petitioned the Church to allow her to be re-enclosed).

Shere is perhaps Surrey’s prettiest village and certainly its most photographed. Ducks on the river, a little ford, and half timber houses – it has all the ingredients of a fairytale Olde England village, apart from the fact that it’s cars rather than horse carts clogging up the High Street. Much of the half timber is Tudor work; the village was a wealthy one, its industries of weaving and tanning based on the agricultural life of the Downs with their wide sheep grazing and the fast flowing water of the Tillingbourne. But some of it is much later – Edwin Lutyens provided a number of sympathetic additions to the village, including the lych gate to the churchyard, around 1900.

The Silent Pool, Shere (image courtesy of Katherine Davis)

The Downs do though involve a lot of ‘ups’. A more restful option is to take the river Wey out of Guildford, towards the ruins of Newark Priory and Pyrford Lock, with the riverside Anchor pub. Kingfishers sometimes flash across the river; narrowboats still use the Wey Navigations, England’s first commercial canal, opened in the seventeenth century. It’s an intimate world of trees and water, which feels miles away from the exposed uplands’ dramatic landscapes, yet you can walk both in a single day and still have time for a pint of beer in Guildford as dusk falls. And the town’s good rail connections also enable you to walk a little further afield.

Box Hill, near Dorking, provides one of the Down’s stiffest ascents, as well as rich wildlife, including the flourishing box trees which give the hill its name. Below the escarpment, the River Mole is home to kingfishers, moorhens and wagtails, but also to the more exotic mandarin ducks and ring-necked parakeets.

Although there are a few climbs, this is gentle countryside; the North Downs Way is well waymarked and most paths are easy to follow. The worst obstacle you’re likely to meet is a patch of mud. And it’s a good thing the going isn’t too strenuous, as this is country that repays a leisurely approach.

But if you do take this trail and end up with lots of aches and pains after a hard day’s hiking, you might enjoy unwinding in one of the newest spas in Surrey.

A guest post by Andrea Kirkby.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with London Hotels Insight.

My Velvet Escape travel tip: North Downs Way, England is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Image courtesy of AntwerpenR

The man sitting next to me on the plane looked a bit flustered. We were about to land at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol after an eight hour flight from Vancouver and aside from the polite “hello” when I settled in my seat, we didn’t speak a word to each other throughout the flight. He turned to me and muttered that he had a five-hour layover in Amsterdam and asked me if I was flying on to another destination as well. “No, I live here”, I replied. “What does one do at Amsterdam Airport to kill five hours?”, he countered. I thought about that for a moment. A five-hour transit did sound tiresome but then again, this is Amsterdam Airport Schiphol – one of Europe’s best airports with a broad array of things to do and see. I asked him if he’d been in Amsterdam before. The answer was negative, “no, just the airport many years ago”. It was a familiar answer. About 40% of all arriving passengers at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol are in transit to another destination. I didn’t hesitate for a moment: “This is your chance then to see a bit of Amsterdam”. I gave him some tips, suggested what to do and see and traced a walking route on the map of Amsterdam in the inflight magazine.

Transit in Amsterdam – things to do

The Bubbles Seafood & Wine Bar

The conversation on the plane prompted me to write this post about things to do while in transit at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. Millions of transit passengers travel through the airport every year without grabbing the opportunity to explore Amsterdam’s UNESCO World Heritage canals for a few hours. I’ve listed below things to do at the airport or if you opt to see a bit of Amsterdam for an hour or two (depending on the length of your layover):

1 – 2 hours

You’d better get moving to your next flight!

2 – 4 hours

There are many things you can do to keep occupied:

Relax: You can relax at one of the lounge chairs that are scattered throughout the airport or grab a shower. Or you can indulge yourself with a shiatsu massage in one of the Massage-o-Matic chairs or at the Back-to-Life centre (which offers massages and enriched-oxygen treatments). There’s also the XpresSpa which offers a variety of spa treatments as well as waxing, manicures and pedicures.

Image courtesy of Heatheronhertravels

An alternative is to sit in the Library where you can check your emails, read the papers or browse through the books. Or you can do what many transit passengers do: sit around at one of the many bars and cafés, and mingle with fellow transit passengers or the bartender. There are so many to choose from, amongst others, the Shirasagi sushi bar, Park Café (at the Airport Park), Fair Taste Café (Fair Trade products), Café Chocolat (a delicious range of chocolates), Murphy’s Irish Pub, Sports Café and Bubble Seafood & Wine Bar. Oh there’s a McDonald’s and several Starbucks cafés too.

There are also two hotels inside the terminal where you can get a room for a few hours to enjoy a shower and a rest.

Active: If you love to shop, you’ll love the variety of shops at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol, from fashion to consumer electronics, to books and chocolates, toys, sports gear, accessories and jewellery. If you fancy some art, head for the Rijksmuseum Amsterdam Schiphol. The museum houses a permanent collection of works by some of the great Dutch masters, including Rembrandt and Frans Hals, and there are also themed exhibitions. You can also opt to sit at one of the tables at the Holland Casino (though I’m not too sure if gambling and jetlag go well together).

4 hours or longer

Begijnhof

A layover of four hours or longer makes a quick visit into Amsterdam a real option, especially if your luggage has been checked through to your final destination and you have your boarding pass for the onward flight. I’m surprised by how few people actually consider this. I mean, Amsterdam is one of the most beautiful and fascinating cities in the world! Trains run directly from the airport (the station is a minute’s walk from any of the Arrival Halls) on a very frequent basis and the journey to Amsterdam Centraal (Central Station) takes approximately 20 minutes. Here are several options for a quick visit to Amsterdam:

Go it alone: Purchase a return ticket, then take the train to Amsterdam Centraal (make sure you only board a train that goes to Centraal). When you exit Amsterdam Centraal, you can either opt for a canal tour (boats leave from and return to the station’s doorstep) for a 1.5 hour tour along the canals. You can also choose to stretch your legs – I’ve included suggested walking routes below which can be done in an hour or as long as several hours (depending on your pace or how much time you have). These routes takes you past some of my favourite parts of Amsterdam including the Brouwersgracht (one of the most picturesque canals), the Jordaan neighbourhood, the Anne Frank House, the Nine Streets neighbourhood, the intersection of the Keizersgracht/Leidsegracht, the Begijnhof (or Nunnery) and the Groenburgwal (another impossibly picturesque canal) before leading you back to the station.

View Quick walk around Amsterdam in a larger map

Joining a tour from the airport: It’s also possible to book a tour at the airport either upon arrival or in advance. Great Amsterdam Excursions offers a variety of tours. Another unique option is to go on the Floating Dutchman. The bus picks you up at the airport and transports you to the city centre where it transforms itself into a boat. It then ‘dives’ into the canals for a water-based tour before bringing its guests back to the airport.

In the spring months (April-May), you could join a tour that takes you to the nearby tulip fields and the world-famous Keukenhof Gardens.

Visit the Amsterdam Airport Schiphol website for more information on things to do and tours.

As a final note, if you’ve never been to Amsterdam and you have a layover at Schiphol Amsterdam Airport, you might as well change your flight schedule (if your itinerary permits it) and spend a few days in Amsterdam. This is your golden opportunity to explore this fantastic city! Search for hotels in Amsterdam.

Things to do on transit at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Afternoon tea is a centuries-old English tradition of late-afternoon indulgence: a cup of freshly-brewed tea accompanied by a selection of pastries and bite-sized sandwiches. This quintessential English tradition was introduced in many of the ex-British colonies, including Malaysia, where I grew up, where it became commonly known as high tea. It was something I always looked forward to: high tea with my family on a lazy Sunday afternoon. We made it a sport to pick the best places for high tea and which place had the best scones (in my book, the most essential part of any high tea).

High wine, The Dylan style

The Dylan Amsterdam

So, my curiosity was piqued when I was invited to experience High Wine, a variation of high tea, at The Dylan, one of the oldest and most luxurious boutique hotels in Amsterdam. The invitation described High Wine as a selection of some of the hotel’s best wines and tapas-style dishes. What? No scones and pastries? Ok, it’s a contemporary play on the high tea concept but I wasn’t sure about the absence of scones. But I accepted the invitation anyway. After all, who could resist the temptation of being fed fine wines and tapas specially selected by Dennis Kuipers, the Michelin-starred Executive Chef of The Dylan.

The Dylan is situated in a 17th century landmark on the Keizers canal in the heart of Amsterdam. A good deal of celebrities have stayed here but I was surprised to find a cosy, intimate atmosphere when I walked in. Nothing hoighty-toighty, but rather, a casual elegance that put me straight at ease. I was led to a gorgeous corner, complete with comfortable sofas and a fireplace.

A waiter showed up with a bowl of seriously delicious olives. He introduced himself and the High Wine concept: a food and wine pairing consisting of four specially-selected wines and four amuse-style bites. I couldn’t wait to get started. By this time, the absence of scones had diminished to a minor, insignificant detail.

These Sicilan olives were simply perfect!

The first wine/amuse pairing arrived soon after. A fresh, crisp, Vicar’s Choice Sauvignon Blanc from the Saint Clair estate in Malborough, New Zealand, and a delightful caesar salad with sautéed prawns and garlic croutons served in a martini glass.

The caesar salad in a martini glass

Up next was another delight: wagyu pastrami with a fresh pasta salad with grilled pointed pepper, basil and a Savora mustard dressing. The wagyu was tender (as it should be) whilst the sweet pepper and the delicate mustard dressing gave the dish an extra edge. This amuse was paired with a gorgeous III B & Auromon Chardonnay from the Limoux (Languedoc) region; a flavourful Chardonnay with fleeting vanilla tones.

The wagyu pastrami

The lovely III B & Auromon Chardonnay

The next course turned out to be my favourite: sautéed duck breast with string beans, grilled potatoes and a jus of smoked-dried meat. The rich Bucaro Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, with gorgeous smoky tones, perfectly complemented the full-flavored duck breast and the jus. The food/wine pairings were spot on!

The sautéed duck breast

The Bucaro is served

The four-course High Wine was completed by a glass of marinated strawberries with prosecco, mint and an almond wafer and accompanied by a dessert wine from the Monbazillac (near Bordeaux). The Monbazillac Grande Maison Cuvée des Agnes had a soft honey flavour which blended superbly with the strawberries, mint and almonds.

The honey-laced Monbazillac Grande Maison

The strawberries served in a martini glass

An excellent alternative for late-afternoon indulgence

At the end of the meal, I was convinced. This is not your typical high tea – aside from the time of day at which it’s served, the two have little in common. Instead, High Wine is an excellent alternative for some late-afternoon indulgence right in the heart of Amsterdam!

High Wine is served every day between 3 – 7pm at The Dylan Amsterdam (Keizersgracht 384). For reservations (recommended), call: +31(0)20 530 2010.

About The Dylan Amsterdam

The Dylan Amsterdam opened its doors in 1990, making it one of the first luxury boutique hotels in the world. Located in a stunning 17th century building on one of Amsterdam’s loveliest canals, the Keizersgracht, The Dylan has 40 individually designed rooms and suites. The hotel is also home to Vinkeles, a Michelin-star restaurant that offers contemporary French cuisine. There’s also a state-of-the-art conference centre that features what is arguably one of the most stunning walls I’ve ever seen.

The Dylan Amsterdam - courtyard

The Dylan Amsterdam - suite

The Dylan Amsterdam - conference room

Note: A big thank you goes to The Dylan for hosting me at High Wine. Opinions expressed in this post are seriously mine.

High wine at The Dylan Amsterdam is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

We passed several towns in Germany before entering Austrian airspace

Formidable mountains and gorgeous valleys

The verdant valleys of the Alps

Stunning Alpine scenery from the air

The Inn Valley and Innsbruck in the back (behind the runway)

Plane views: Innsbruck is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Lanzarote

“The most beautiful nightclub in the world”

Upon entering the Jameos, visitors descend down a series of steps into an open cavern called the Jameo Chico. This jameo houses a restaurant that overlooks a large lava tube with a lake. The crystal-clear water of the lake is a stunning blue. You can walk past the lake along a narrow pathway – look out for the little albino crabs which are unique to Lanzarote.

Steps lead down to the Jameo Chico

The lake with its stunning blue crystalline water

Reflections in the lake

At the other end of the tube, another series of steps leads visitors into another open space: the Jameo Grande. There’s really nothing quite like it. Emerging from the darkness of the lava tube, you’ll be struck by the white surfaces and the turquoise water of the pool. Palm trees and shrubs line the pool, making it easily one of the most attractive swimming pools I’ve ever seen. The Jameo Grande is often used for parties – Cesar Manrique dubbed it as “the most beautiful nightclub in the world” and it’s hard not to agree with that!

The fabulous pool in the Jameo Grande

The Jameo Grande from above

At the end of the Jameo Grande, another wonder awaits: the auditorium. This concert hall, built in a cave, can house 600 spectators and boasts excellent acoustics. I didn’t have the chance to experience a concert in this cave but clap your hands to get an idea of the quality of the acoustics.

The amazing auditorium

Lanzarote is easily accessible by ferry or air from mainland Spain. In addition, there are many direct flights to Lanzarote from many major cities in Europe. If you’re visiting Lanzarote, you cannot miss the Jameos del Agua. It’s, well, simply… enchanting! Check out my post on things to do in Lanzarote for more tips.

Enchanting spots: Jameos del Agua, Lanzarote is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

The Liguria loop

A great way to get acquainted with the area is to do the Liguria loop, making use of public transport to get around. The loop, as shown in this map, covers three towns: Santa Margherita, Camogli and Portofino, and can easily be done as a day trip during the tourist season. I chose Santa Margherita as my base, due to its many accommodation options and eateries, and explored the peninsula from there.

Santa Margherita

Santa Margherita is a lovely town with colourful squares and a palm-fringed waterfront. As it’s one of the largest towns in Liguria, there’s a multitude of hotels, restaurants and cafés to choose from. Its biggest attraction is arguably the Basilica di Santa Margherita, with its elaborate interior and extravagant chandeliers.

Santa Margherita

A colourful street in Santa Margherita

The stunning Basilica di Santa Margherita

From Santa Margherita, take the train to Camogli, a seven-minute ride under the mountains of the peninsula.

Camogli

Camogli is a fishing town at the foot of the Monte di Portofino. Famous for its colourful buildings and annual fish-fry, Camogli also has a popular beach and a picturesque harbour. Spend some time here exploring the fortress, the narrow alleyways and the centuries-old fishing traditions. And stop by the famous Revello focacceria for some delicious focaccias.

The beach in Camogli

Camogli's charming harbour

From Camogli, take the local ferry to San Fruttuoso. Check at the harbour for departure times.

San Fruttuoso

San Fruttuoso is a tiny village hemmed in between the Monti di Portofino and the sea. Despite its small size, San Fruttuoso has a variety of historic gems that are more than worth a visit. The first monument visitors see as the boat sails into the inlet is the San Fruttuoso di Capodimonte Benedictine monastery, which includes a 13th century abbey, a 10th century church and a Romanesque cloister. Another famous attraction lies under the surface of the water: the statue of Christ of the Abysses, which can be viewed on a diving excursion.

San Fruttuoso

From San Fruttuoso, take the boat service to Portofino.

Portofino

Portofino is the playground for the rich and famous. Located in the heart of the Italian Riviera, Portofino is a small town with a stunning harbour that’s a perfect shelter for the many colourful fishing boats and million-dollar yachts. Lovely restaurants and cafés line the emerald-green harbour and there’s a gorgeous Botanical Garden that’s ideal for a leisurely stroll. The nearby Castello Brown and the San Giorgio church and lighthouse are within walking distance and provide panoramic views of the town and the Ligurian coast.

Portofino

Colourful fishing boats and multi-million-dollar yachts vie for your attention

From Portofino, it’s a short bus ride back to Santa Margherita. The route hugs the coastline and winds past stately villas, beautiful coves and beaches before reaching Santa Margherita….. just in time for a well-deserved glass of Pinot Grigio!

View Liguria loop in a larger map

Exploring the Italian Riviera is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

City of Arts & Sciences in Valencia

A guest post by Monique Rubin.

Valencia has a laid back, understated charm that catches you unawares. Located on the Mediterranean coast and possessed of beautiful old neighborhoods and modern architecture, it is emerging from the shadow of Madrid and Barcelona and fast becoming the go-to city in Spain. I developed a major crush on the city on a recent visit.

The Old Town of Valencia

The romance began with a walk through Valencia’s historical center, which was like taking a stroll through 2000 years of history. I entered the city just as El Cid did, through the Torres de Quart, one of the two city gates that remain from the 14th century.

Torres de Quart

Next, I made my way to Virgin Square and the Cathedral Complex, where I found the Basilica of the Virgen de los Desamperados and the Cathedral of Valencia. The Cathedral, built in the 13th century on the site of a former mosque, mixes a variety of architectural styles – Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Classical – and its three portals reflect each style. The cathedral also houses what is believed to be the Holy Grail, the cup used by Christ during the last supper.

The wooing continues at Lonja de la Seda. La Lonja is the old silk exchange and has to be the world’s most magnificent merchant buildings. Built in the 15th century, the Gothic building resembles a church from the outside and inside, a palace and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. La Lonja is made up of the main hall where merchants would meet, negotiate and trade, the merchant tribunal where disputes were settled and a prison for merchants who couldn’t pay their debts.

Valencia’s markets

Want to know what’s good to eat? Visit the Mercado Central Monday – Saturday from 7:30 – 2:30 and see what the locals buy. Just across the street from La Lonja, the Mercado Central is one of the largest markets in Europe and is located in the same spot the city market has occupied since the 13th century.

A little way across town is the Mercado del Colon. Built in 1916 and clearly inspired by the work of Gaudi, the building was renovated after falling into disrepair, reopening in 2003 as a luxury shopping arcade with designer shops, bars, cafes and restaurants where you’ll find Valencia’s posh and trendy set.

While Mercado del Colon is where the posh and trendy dwell, Barrio del Carmen is where you go to see and be seen. This lively neighborhood with its fountains and orange trees in the heart of the historic city, is peaceful during the day but becomes the center of Valencia’s night life when the sun goes down, attracting bohemians, artists, students and tourists all mix and mingle. Be sure to visit Café Sant Jaume for the city’s signature cocktail, Aqua de Valencia. Made of cava, orange juice and vodka, if this is the “water of Valencia”, it’s no wonder the people are so happy.

Eating in Valencia

Traditional Valencia paella with rabbit, chicken & vegetables

You have not fully experienced a destination until you’ve tasted its cuisine and this is certainly true in Valencia. Dining in Valencia is a real treat. Paella is without a doubt the city’s most famous dish. And though it is traditionally made with chicken, rabbit and vegetables, I opted for the seafood version at Ernest Hemingway’s favorite restaurant in Valencia, La Pepica. I made a stop at Horchatería Chocolatería Restaurante Santa Catalina to try an ice-cold horchata, the almond milk drink beloved by locals, and the decadently delightful churros and hot chocolate. All I have to say is thank goodness this place was across from a church because the churros and hot chocolate were absolutely sinful.

With sandy beaches and warm weather year round, life is always a beach in Valencia. Valencia’s city beach, Playa Malvarrosa, has a 7 km promenade, a number of restaurants, parks, gardens, live music and museums, and is where I was told the “beautiful people” hang out. Enjoy a cocktail at one of the bars along the promenade before taking a catamaran tour at sunset around the port.

The F1 Grand Prix in Valencia

After all of that eating, I was happy to learn about Valencia’s reputation in the area of sport. In addition to being home to the 32nd America’s cup, the Royal Marina is also the setting of Europe’s F1 Grand Prix circuit. As Europe’s Capital of sport for 2011, Valencia has hosted a number of events anchored by the Formula 1 Grand Prix and the 31st edition of its marathon. My sporting adventures were limited runs and the bike tour I took with Valencia bikes and in the Jardin del Turia. The Turia was once a river that ran through the city. After a series of devastating floods, Valencia diverted the river and it is now a 12 km long park with fountains, beautiful gardens and a biopark.

While on the bike tour, I got a look at the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Arts & Sciences) The only way to describe this work of architectural art is awesome. The futuristic landmark, by Santiago Calatrava, is Europe’s largest leisure-cultural complex. The “city” is comprised of six different cultural and entertainment destinations; L’Hemisferic is based on the human eye and houses the IMAX Dome; Science Museum Principe Felipe; L’Oceanografic, and the Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia. I could have spent the entire day at the Science Museum, but felt a little guilty since I wasn’t with my kids. L’Oceanografic is Europe’s largest aquarium and has the only beluga whales in Europe.

The City of Arts & Sciences

These are just a few of the things I loved about Valencia. I can’t wait to go back and fall in love all over again.

About this week’s guest writer
Monique Rubin lives with her husband and two children in the Netherlands and blogs about her travels with her family from Amsterdam to Zanzibar, her quest to “run the world” and expat life at Mo Travels.

Falling in love with Valencia is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

One of the highlights of my recent trip to Innsbruck was watching the sunrise from the peak of the Zugspitze, at 2,952m, Germany’s highest peak. There were various wooden statues being exhibited on the observation deck but this statue of a naked man formed the perfect subject, with the colours of the sky at sunrise as a brilliant backdrop.

Read the accompanying post: “Watching the sunrise from the Zugspitze“.

Velvet moments: travel photo of the week – Zugspitze sunrise is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Watching the sunrise from the top of any of the mighty peaks in the Alps is a popular activity for both locals and tourists in the Alpine countries. There are many spots where you can do this but one of the most spectacular spots has to be from the peak of the Zugspitze, at 2,952m, Germany’s highest peak. Located on the border with Austria, the peak can be reached via the Zugspitzebahn (cable-car) from the Austrian side or by railway from the German side. Whichever way you choose to get to the peak, dress warm and get there early – you’ll be rewarded with arguably one of the most magical sights in the Alps.

Scroll down to see the sunrise in pictures – oh, and there’s a video too!

5:45am: the spectacular colours as we took the cable-car up

6:00am: the first reddish/orangy glow

Viewing the sunrise from the observation deck

The surrounding peaks of the Alps bathed in pink

It's possible to climb to the peak (a pretty harrowing undertaking)

I climbed the last 20-odd meters to the peak for an unobstructed view

And while you’re there, treat yourself to a hearty breakfast while you admire the stunning view! Watch my one minute video of the sunrise filmed from the Zugspitze observation deck.

Note: A big thank you goes to the Tirol Zugspitze Arena Tourism Board for hosting us and for the lovely hospitality.

Watching the sunrise from the Zugspitze is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Things to do in the summer

Skiing is the name of the game in the winter but in the summer, visitors can go hiking, mountain-biking, toboganning, rock-climbing, paragliding, abseiling, even… scuba diving! Imagine that: scuba diving in the Alps! Visitors can also hike to the lakes for a refreshing swim, go for a round of golf, indulge in a spa treatment or sit back at one of the many cafés and restaurants and take in the breathtaking Alpine scenery.

Stunning mountain scenery in the Tyrol Zugspitz Arena

On my recent trip to this area with three blogger friends, we were offered a variety of activities to experience. Janice and I opted for a hike through the forests to the beautiful Blind, Weissen and Mittel lakes. The three-hour hike led us past gorgeous meadows, towering fir trees and herds of cows and sheep, each with its own bell slung around its neck. We were never far from a stunning panorama of the surrounding mountains or the extraordinary turquoise lakes.

Views to the mountains through the trees

The beautiful turquoise Blindsee (lake)

Scuba-diving in the Blindsee high up in the Tyrolean Alps

Another popular activity is to take the cable-car or the Zugspitzebahn to the top of the Zugspitze. This engineering marvel whisks visitors to the top of the mountain in less than ten minutes. The view from the top of the valley below and the other mighty peaks of the Tyrolean Alps is simply phenomenal.

Truly an engineering marvel!

The view from the top of the Zugspitze

We also went rock-climbing and abseiling at the lovely Häselgehr waterfall and ended our little adventure on a zip-line past the waterfall. There are various levels and we went on the easiest. I was happy with that, considering my fear of heights!

Häselgehr waterfall

Climbing the rock face at the Häselgehr waterfall

All that action and adventure left us famished! We ended the day with a typical Tyrolean lunch at Gam Salm, a lovely restaurant at the foot of the Zugspitze. It was a stunning day and we tucked into our omelettes topped with bacon and fresh chantarelle mushrooms while enjoying the view of the verdant fields and the impressive Zugspitze. Truly unforgettable!

A delicious omelette with chantaralle mushrooms

The view of the Zugspitze from Gamsalm

Note: A big thank you goes to the Tirol Zugspitz Arena Tourism Board for hosting me and for the gracious hospitality.

Action and adventure in Tyrol Zugspitz Arena is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Velvet moments: travel photo of the week – Besalú is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog

Image courtesy of Hector Garcia

The only city in the world that straddles two continents: Istanbul. Its strategic position on the Bosphorus, a strait that connects the Black Sea with the Mediterranean Sea, was a prized possession since ancient times. Many wars were fought in this area and Istanbul (or Constantinople as it was then known) was occupied by a succession of empires. Each left their mark on the city, many of which can still be seen today; from the magnificent Roman Cisterns and the Galata Tower to the majestic Hagia Sofia, the exotic Topkapi Palace and the breathtaking Dolmabahçe Palace. Istanbul’s colourful past, its stunning location at the crossroads of East and West, and its bewildering mix of cultures make it one of the most fascinating destinations in the world.

Ways to soak in the local flavour of Istanbul

Is Istanbul more European or more Asian? The argument on that never ends, but it doesn’t really matter – the city is distinctly Istanbul. Here are ten ways to soak in the city’s local flavour.

Istanbul ferry

1. Travel by dolmus (a small bus) and cling on! The bus driver collects money, counts change, talks on the phone and smokes while he drives. For a more tranquil experience, mingle with commuters on the municipality ferry from Eminonu. The ferry route offers unrivalled panoramas of the city skyline as it zigzags between the European and Asian banks of the Bosphorus.

2. Have Turkish kahvaltı (breakfast, pronounced kah-val-tuh), mezze (appetizer) with fish and a leisurely dinner in Bebek.

3. Watch the day go by on the Galata Bridge, Istanbul’s famous bridge that crosses the Golden Horn. This is particularly calming after a close shave on the dolmus. The stunning minarets of the  Hagia Sophia,  Blue and  Süleymaniyeh mosques and the Galata Tower form a striking backdrop while the spice-filled air, the anglers, and the traffic on the bridge and the many boats plying the Golden Horn below will keep your senses tantalised!

Patriarchs in Istanbul

4. Forget the Grand Bazaar, go to the spice bazaar and the lively local market surrounding it. Refresh yourself with freshly squeezed Pomegranate juice.

5. Get scrubbed in a Hammam (Turkish bath). Cagaloglu and Cemberlitas in Sultanahmet have been visited by celebrities, but try Galatasaray in Beyoglu, more popular with residents.

6. Play backgammon and drink coffee with patriarchs along the Golden Horn, an inlet of the Bosphorus. Hungry? Call one of the pretzel paddlers over. Watch the colours of the Golden Horn turn into a shimmering gold when the sun sets.

7. Visit the weekend market and smoke shisha late into the night in Ortakoy.

8. Take it down a notch at Kadıköy, across the Bosphorus on the Asian side of Istanbul. There are shops and restaurants galore, and you won’t have to jostle with tourists.

Istanbul short term rental

9. Drink raki (Turkish anise-flavoured spirit) and ayran (Turkish yogurt drink)! These are Turkey’s national drinks. Yes, the Turks also have good coffee and tea, but these are in a class of their own!

10. Finally, why stay at a hotel when you can snag your own short-term apartment in the heart of Taksim – where well-heeled locals shop, dine and party. Roomorama is the leading short-term rental platform providing many good-quality options, great value and secure transactions. Istanbul will have you staying longer than expected, so ditch the cramped hotel rooms and instead live like a local with Roomorama.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with Roomorama.

Ten ways to experience Istanbul like a local is a post from: Velvet Escape's blog