The ladies wore colourful traditional costumes

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Velvet moments: travel photo – ladies of Valencia is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Costa Brava

Costa Brava, in the northern corner of Catalonia (Spain) is one of my favourite destinations in the world. Not many places combine sun, sea, nature, culture and gastronomy as effortlessly as Costa Brava. Every time I visit, there’s always something new to experience: another gastronomic highlight, an artistic wonder or a hidden panorama. A great way to get a stunning overview of Costa Brava is to, literally, see it from above. If you’re flying into Barcelona from the north, chances are you’ll fly right across Costa Brava, with the gorgeous blue Mediterranean on your left and the snow-capped peaks of the Pyrenees on your right. You’ll see the rugged coast of the Cap de Creus, the broad sweep of the Bay of Roses and the patchwork of fields and little villages that make up the Emporda region. Once you’re in Costa Brava, there are various ways to get a bird’s eye view. Adrenaline junkies can go on a skydive in Costa Brava. Another more tranquil option is to go on a hot-air balloon flight.

Experiencing a hot-air balloon flight in Costa Brava

Hot-air balloon flights in Costa Brava are offered by, amongst others, Globus Emporda, a small but very experienced team who do hot-air balloon flights over the Emporda region bordering the Costa Brava coast. The Emporda is a predominantly agricultural region with endless fields of crops, interspersed by forests and quaint medieval villages.

The hot-air balloon flights leave at dawn which means an early rise. That gave me the opportunity to see the sun rise from the beach in front of our hotel, Hostal Empúries.

Sunrise on the Costa Brava

We drove a short distance to the village of Verges (on a side note, there’s a lovely restaurant there called Mas Pi that serves traditional Catalan fare) where we met the Globus Emporda team in a field ablaze with purple flowers.

Preparing the balloon for our flight

The truck is used as an anchor for the basket

They had the balloon up very quickly and before we knew it, we were clambering into the basket. Our pilot gave us some instructions and up we went!

Almost ready for lift-off!

The burners were fired up...

And off we went!

The balloon rose quickly and I felt my knees quiver as I looked at the patchwork of fields below – erm…I have a thing with heights.

The patchwork of fields in the Emporda

The views of the fields, the villages and towns and of the coast were absolutely breathtaking and that helped distract me from my fear of heights. I started to relax very quickly and noticed the soft breeze in my face and the wonderful silence. The silence was broken occasionally when the pilot fired up the burners or by a barking farm dog far below but my eyes were firmly glued to the magnificent panorama that unfolded below us. The green/brown patchwork of fields stretched to the foothills of the Pyrenees and the Cap de Creus in the distance, and to the beaches of the Bay of Roses.

The fields and beaches along the Bay of Roses (the foothills of the Pyrenees and the Cap de Creus in the background)

Gorgeous coves near the town of L'Escala

The Greco-Roman ruins of Empuries seen from above

We got to see some fabulous villas too!

A flock of birds flew below us - a gorgeous sight!

The flight lasted a bit more than 1.5 hours and took us from Verges to L’Escala, a coastal town, and we floated to a maximum altitude of 1,200m (just under 4,000ft). We landed in a grassy field near the coast: a soft thud on the ground, a little bounce and another thud… the perfect landing! The map below shows our flight path:

As soon as we had our feet firmly planted on the ground, we were whisked away to a nearby village for a hearty breakfast (think freshly-made tortillas, bacon and sausages, fried chicken wings, tomatoes and fruits, all accompanied by a glass of cava!). At breakfast, we received a DVD of our flight and a certificate (proof that my quivering knees withstood the great heights!). If you’re visiting Costa Brava, I can highly recommend the hot-air balloon flight with Globus Emporda for a stunning bird’s eye view of this wonderful corner of Catalonia.

Read other Costa Brava posts on Velvet Escape or view the Velvet Escape Costa Brava guide on Pinterest.

Note: a big thank you goes to the Costa Brava Tourism Board for hosting me and for their wonderful hospitality. All views expressed above are, as always, mine.

A bird’s eye view of Costa Brava is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Paris is, essentially, a 19th century town with a few older buildings thrown in: the showcase city for the rampant optimism of the Belle Epoque, and little in modern day Paris reminds the visitor of earlier, more humble periods. Of all the city’s quartiers, only Montmartre – an unassuming suburb at the time of the 19th century’s ambitious urban regeneration schemes – has been able to preserve some of its ancient charm. But what Baron Haussmann’s wrecking balls failed to achieve, commercial pressures might still bring about. For many years, Montmartre was sorely neglected while most of Paris got its Hausmannian Grands Boulevards. Its poshest street today, Avenue Junot, was once a squatters area that even the police were scared to invade. This neglect has, by and large, contributed to Montmartre retaining its village atmosphere, with narrow hilly cobblestoned streets that have attracted, first, artists, and in later years fashion designers – and movie producers.

When we moved here in 1993, it still had quite a smattering of the old usual shops in a small neighbourhood – the local barber, the green grocer, the picture frame restorer. There still was the hole-in-the-wall bar where locals would have their first coffee of the day standing by the bar. Most days, when walking the dog, we were treated to an amusing scene – a cobbler, sitting outside in front of his tiny shop doing what he did best, renewing old soles.

Today, these are all gone. Over the years, shop leases came up for renewal but were given up because the rent increased. The success of the movie “Amelie“ was partly to blame. Montmartre became fashionable and so did its bricks and mortars. Street by street, Montmartre has been transformed into one big boutique, albeit retaining some of its own unique bohemian charm and character.

Rue de la Vieuville in Montmartre

The Rue De La Vieuville – just off the Abbesses metro station – has in the past attracted less attention than some other streets of Montmartre, which has enabled it to resist the relentless drive towards “Ameliefication”. It is a street where you can still see vestiges of the old, authentic Montmartre – but you have to hurry: otherwise, you will only see them … disappear.

Rue De La Vieuville is a good example of a street that has undergone substantial change – only one of the 20 or so shops was already there when we arrived in the 1990s – but that still manages to hang on to it “village charm”. It has resisted being tourist-ified for a while, but the inevitable gentrification is slowly and surely sneaking in.

A building that once belonged to the friendly local plumber now houses a salon where fish in a basin snack on the old skin off your feet.

The old carpenter workshop has become a vintage boutique,

and in front of the shop where the Montmartrois used to find the wallpaper to decorate their drawing rooms, the jeunesse dorée of Paris (and Berlin, and Amsterdam …) now sip their cafés au lait.

Have you noticed the vibrant colours used on the façades of the old shops?

It is the street running parallel to Rue Yvonne Le Tac that most visitors take from the Metro station Abbesses to get to the Sacre Coeur. If however, you are searching for a little bit of the old style and authentic Montmartre, you should turn your steps towards Rue De La Vieuville.

When next in Montmartre, take the detour and look around. It may not be here for much longer. Even better, opt to stay in an apartment in Montmartre to truly immerse yourself in the local scene. Click here for more information about apartment stays in Paris.

About the guest writer
This guest post was submitted by Marlys, a resident of Montmartre for the last 20 years. She’s also the other half of the Easy Hiker team and wife to Michael Schuermann author of guide book Paris Movie Walks.

Read other guest posts by Marlys:

• My Velvet Escape travel tip: Paris
• Art on the Corner at Grand Junction

Note: This post was brought to you in partnership with All Paris Apartments.

In search of authentic Montmartre is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Barcelona

Barcelona is one of those amazing cities that can easily whisk you off your feet, enthrall you and before you know it, you’re on your way home, breathless and consumed by a whirlwind of impressions and vague memories. There’s so much to see and do in the city that you’ll soon find yourself zooming from one highlight to another without getting a real sense of the local culture or discovering what makes the city tick. One of my favourite remedies is to find a café in a quiet street or square and plant myself there for a few hours and simply observe the world passing by. Strolling around a market or participating in a cooking course are two activities that also help me to travel slow and immerse myself in the local scene. In Barcelona, Cook and Taste, a small cooking school offers just that: a stroll around the splendid La Boqueria market, followed by a cooking course that introduces guests to Catalan cuisine.

A cooking course in Barcelona

Cook and Taste is located a short distance from La Rambla, Barcelona’s most famous boulevard. It’s a cosy place with a long counter along the length of the studio and an exposed, ancient-looking stone wall at the far end. My visit to the cooking school turned out to be one of my favourite experiences in Barcelona (along with the Segway tour). The chef first took us on a tour around the La Boqueria market on La Rambla. It was a fascinating tour as the chef took her time to show us many types of vegetables, meats and seafood and how each are typically prepared in Catalan cuisine.

La Boqueria

A stroll around La Boquria is a mouthwatering experience. The seafood looked incredibly fresh and the hams, sausages and mushrooms were more than sufficient to get my juices flowing within minutes.

Fresh seafood at La Boqueria

Hams and sausages

We spent what seemed like ages exploring the market, picking up some groceries along the way before we were led to the cooking studio. Once there, we washed our hands and donned aprons. I couldn’t wait for the fun to begin. The chef explained the day’s menu: Crema de Calazabo (pumpkin cream soup), fideuá (noodle paella) and Crema Catalana (Catalan flan). YUM!

The Cook and Taste cooking studio

I was quick to raise my hand when she asked for volunteers to prepare the soup – I love pumpkin soup. She explained how the pumpkin should be peeled and chopped and what to do next whilst the others in the group looked on. She then turned her attention to the others and explained the first steps of preparing the noodle paella. She kept a close eye on us as we chopped, blended and stirred all sorts of different concoctions, and explained the origins of the dishes and the specific use of certain ingredients in Catalonia. I loved the way she mixed the cooking instructions with stories about her grandparents and anecdotes about the dishes we were preparing.

Nellie stirring the noodles in the paella pan

Toasted bread with tomato, garlic and olive oil

I chopped the pumpkin, onions and potatoes and dumped them into a pot of water and left them to boil. I then fried the leek before turning my attention to the others. It was good fun having a peek at what the others were up to. After about 30 minutes, I put the boiled vegetables into a blender and watched it churn into a porridge-like soup. A sprinkling of salt and pepper and I was done!

Pumpking soup anyone?

My yummy pumpkin soup!

The noodle paella simmering in the paella pan

Rich firing up the Crema Catalana

My pumpkin soup was a big success! Phew! I’ve since tried this recipe a few times at home and it’s delicious every time. Another simple recipe I picked up at Cook & Taste was how to make toast with tomato and garlic. It’s so simple yet absolutely delicious and perfect for a Sunday morning. The fideuá and the Crema Catalana were done really well – Rich did a fantastic job with the burner to create a thin sugary layer with a lightly burnt colour.

We had a fun afternoon and I came home with some great memories, insights into Catalan cuisine and new recipes. If you’re thinking of taking it slow to immerse yourself in Barcelona’s vibe, I recommend staying in an apartment (click here to find out more about renting an apartment in Barcelona) and enrolling for a cooking course at Cook & Taste. After the course, you can get your groceries at a local market and try out new recipes in your apartment while you’re still on holiday!

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with Oh-Barcelona.

Cook, taste Catalonia is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

The mighty Gran Sasso peaks in Abruzzo

I knew very little about Abruzzo other than that it’s a region to the east of Rome, on the other side of the Apennine mountains, and that it’s home to Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a sublime red wine that instantly makes you daydream of rolling hills bathed in sunshine and fragrant herbs – well, that’s the effect the wine has on me. I still wasn’t sure what to expect of Abruzzo when my partner and I picked up our rental car at Rome’s Fiumicino Airport. We headed in an easterly direction on the A24 highway towards the Apennine mountains. One and a half hours later, we found ourselves in a simply enchanting region: imposing snow-capped mountains (with peaks exceeding 10,000 feet) formed a spectacular backdrop for quaint medieval towns perched (often precariously) on hilltops and mountain ridges, whilst the surrounding hills and plains were a colourful patchwork of forests, grassy fields, olive groves, fruit orchards and vineyards, and in the distance, I could just about see the bright blue shimmer of the Adriatic Sea. I was stunned!

Impressions of Abruzzo

We explored more of Abruzzo in the following week and I found myself wondering out loud on various occasions why this region was still pretty much off-the-beaten-path. The first thing that grabbed my attention were the mountains. I never expected them to be this huge.

The mountains of Abruzzo

The Gran Sasso and Majella mountain ranges are the highest in Abruzzo and are visible from practically the entire region. The Gran Sasso mountains are also home to Europe’s southernmost glacier – I never knew there was a glacier so close to Rome!

The snowcapped Gran Sasso mountains and forested hills

When I turned my gaze away from the majestic mountain scenery, I noticed many hilltops, with medieval villages hugging the slopes and crowned with ancient castles or fortresses. With a history going back more than 2,000 years, Abruzzo is awash with historic towns and archeological sites.

The medieval village of Scanno

The villages of Calascio & Rocca Calascio (with its imposing castle on the hilltop)

Civitella del Tronto - the medieval village with one of Europe's greatest fortresses

The fortress and rooftops of Civitella del Tronto

We got to explore some of the towns in Abruzzo in the following days. I quickly drew one conclusion: fans of medieval towns are spoilt for choice in Abruzzo. There are so many of them, each with its own charm, history and traditions.

A charming street in Civitella del Tronto

The main square in Pescocostanza - one of my favourite towns in Abruzzo

The historic town of Sulmona (famous for its confetti candy) with its Roman aqueduct

We strolled around the towns, stopping occasionally for a coffee at one of the local cafés. One of my favourites was Bar Abruzzo, a café in Scanno, simply for the fascinating historical photos of people and life in Abruzzo on the wall.

The photo wall in Bar Abruzzo, Scanno

One of the highlights for me was a visit to Campli, a small town in the far north of Abruzzo. Campli is home to one of Italy’s most important archeological sites, as well as the Holy Staircase (one of only three in the country). Oh yes, and Campli is also famous throughout the region for its porchetta (roast pork)! The Holy Staircase was a truly breathtaking sight and the best part: unlike its counterpart in Rome, there were no crowds, just us!

The Holy Staircase in Campli

Then there was the food and wines. I’m a big fan of porcini mushrooms so I had lots of it with all sorts of pasta, mostly fettucine and pappardelle. I discovered types of pasta which are unique to Abruzzo such as ‘ceppe’ (each bit of ceppe is hand-made!) and chitarra. And yes, I had my fair share of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Pecorino wines. Absolutely gorgeous stuff!

Fettucine with porcini mushrooms

Ceppe with a light tomato meat sauce served at Hotel Zunica, Civitella del Tronto

A gorgeous Montepulciano d'Abruzzo at Hotel Zunica

Remember when I talked about the effect Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines have on me? Well, this one from the Illuminati estate hit the right notes within moments!

This one from the Illuminati winery topped my list!

The towering peaks of the Gran Sasso mountains, pristine beaches along the Adriatic coast, a treasure chest of medieval towns and historic sites, unique local food and wines, spectacular hiking trails and ski pistes… it was clear to me that Abruzzo has a lot going for it, and all this just an hour and a half’s drive east of Rome! I’m truly happy that I visited Abruzzo. If you’re reading this and thinking that you should visit too, I suggest you hurry while Abruzzo is still delightfully off-the-beaten-path!

View Towns in Abruzzo in a larger map

Note: a big thank you goes to Abruzzo Turismo, Hotel Zunica 1880 and Hotel Santa Croce for taking such great care of us in Abruzzo. We greatly appreciate your generous hospitality.

Impressions of Abruzzo is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

City of Arts & Sciences, Valencia

I leave for Valencia today, one of my favourite cities in Spain, for a week of leisurely walks through its markets, parks and Art Nouveau neighbourhoods; visits to some of the city’s excellent museums and the stunning City of Arts and Sciences; some beach time; and undoubtedly a good deal of delicious local cuisine and wines – I suspect that paella will be a prominent feature and I’m hoping to revisit some of my favourite restaurants in Valencia.

I visited Valencia twice in 2009 to cover the Valencia Formula One Grand Prix, the SHA Wellness clinic as well as some of the nearby medieval towns like Morella. This time around, I’ll be exploring the city’s numerous attractions such as the Old Town, the City of Arts & Sciences (including the Oceanographic, Europe’s largest aquarium), the Central Market, and the Bioparc to get the lowdown of what makes Valencia a perennial favourite city/beach getaway amongst many Europeans. I’m really excited because I didn’t get to see a lot of Valencia on my previous trips though what I did get to see certainly impressed me. Moreover, the city’s vibe is infectious and I promised myself I’d return one day.

An aerial view of Valencia

That day has come and I can’t wait to immerse myself in Valencia’s historic, cultural and gastronomic heritage… and spend some lazy afternoons on the city’s white, sandy beaches. This is going to be an awesome trip! Follow me via Twitter (I’ll be using the hashtag #VEinValencia) and/or facebook as I explore this fabulous city.

A big thank you goes to the City of Valencia tourism board, Vueling airlines, Barceló Valencia hotel and the Caro Hotel for your generous hospitality.

Discovering Valencia is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Read about my impressions of Abruzzo.

View other Velvet Moments from around the world.

Velvet moments: travel photo – wine station in Abruzzo is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Aurora borealis (image courtesy of Visit Finland)

I’ve always wanted to see the northern lights or the aurora borealis. I was about eight when I first saw a picture of it in a geographic encyclopedia. I stared at the image for ages, in total awe of the colours and how they seemingly dance in the sky.

Thirty-odd years later, my wish to see the northern lights was about to come true. I’d just arrived in Ylläs, a village in Finnish Lapland, about 150km north of the Arctic Circle. Being this far north and the fact that the aurora borealis was at the peak of its eleven-year cycle, the chance of seeing the northern lights was almost a sure thing – and I was excited beyond words. As I unpacked my bag in my room, I glanced out the window and noticed a strange, elongated cloud. “Hmm, that’s a weird-looking cloud”, I thought and continued unpacking. A few minutes later, I met my guide, Tuija, in the hotel lobby and she asked me if I’d already seen the northern lights. I shook my head and she said, “well, let’s go see it now!”. She didn’t have to tell me twice!

Once outside, I was greeted by the most magical sight I’d ever seen. Long curtains of light seemed to descend from the dark sky in hues of green, yellow and pink. They moved slowly in a series of swirls, performing a sensual dance in the sky. I was simply awestruck.

The northern lights above Ylläs

I grabbed my camera and took some pictures to capture this moment – the photo above is, unfortunately, the best shot I have – but I quickly put my camera away and simply stared at this amazing natural phenomenon. I’d waited decades to see this! I pinched myself and stamped my feet in the snow – yes, this was real. The stinging pinch was real, the ground below me was real and the dancing lights in the sky were definitely real. I then realised that the long ‘cloud’ I’d seen earlier from my room window was indeed the northern lights. I chuckled at the thought that I’d waited thirty-odd years to see it and when I finally saw it for the first time, I mistook it for a cloud!

they were performing the tango right before me in the dark, Laplandic sky

Later that evening, Tuija and I had a lovely chat over dinner. She mentioned that the tango is one of the most popular dances in Finland – there are numerous tango dance clubs scattered across the country and tango competitions are very popular. That bit of information crept into my mind as I went for a walk after dinner. The northern lights danced in the night sky above me, with their rhythmic and expressive movements. It seemed like they were performing the tango right before me in the dark, Laplandic sky: a quick swirl, then a sensual embrace; small steps followed by long, elegant steps; lifts and drops. I felt honoured and humbled by this magnificent performance. It was a dream come true and I thanked the heavens for coming out to dance. It’s a sight I will never forget.

Getting there: the closest airport to Ylläs is in Kittila, about a 45-minute drive away. There are scheduled flights from Helsinki as well as a variety of chartered services from various points in Europe.

Note: a big thank you goes to Visit Finland and Ylläs for hosting me in Lapland. As always, all opinions expressed above are mine.

Tango in the sky is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

The snow-capped peaks of the Alps

Chains of mountains in the Austrian Alps

The Alps from 33,000 feet

The Alps: mountains, icefields and valleys

See other posts on Plane Views from around the world.

Plane views: the European Alps is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Here’s a contribution from Abigail King, a.k.a. Inside the Travel Lab.

London’s a city with more experiences than you can fit into a lifetime – even a lucky one full of great health and plenty of years. Celebrate London, therefore, with a flaming cosmopolitan at the sumptuous Egerton Hotel. Great service has never looked this good. – Abigail King

Read the accompanying post: ‘The Egerton Hotel Review‘.

Velvet moments: travel photo – a lavish kind of London is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

The smoke sauna

The sauna is an integral part of daily life in Finland. It’s much more than just a place to sit, sweat and relax; it’s woven into the social fabric, a place where families and friends gather for a chat or the latest gossip. There’s an average of one sauna per household in Finland! I’ve been told that the sauna even functions as a place where informal business meetings are held and decisions are made. As soon as I heard that, images of Nokia executives discussing the latest mobile trends in the sauna quickly sprung to my mind. Fact is, the Finns love their saunas.

The sauna gondola in Ylläs

On my recent trip to Ylläs in Lapland (northern Finland), I had the opportunity to experience a variety of saunas, from the traditional wood-fired type to the modern electric-powered cabins. However, there was one sauna that was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced: the sauna gondola!

The wood-panelled sauna gondola on the Ylläs ski lift

Located in the ski resort village of Ylläs in Finnish Lapland (150km north of the Arctic Circle), the sauna gondola is operated by Sport Resort Ylläs and runs on the 2km-long ski lift that brings skiers from the base station to the top of Ylläs, about 800m above sea level. I would’ve loved to see the puzzled expressions on the faces of Doppelmayr’s engineers (the world’s leading ropeway engineering company) when they were commissioned to build a ski-lift in Ylläs and include a custom-built sauna gondola. That’s right, a sauna cabin on a ski-lift! I’m quite sure the engineers doubted the mental state of their Finnish client upon hearing this requirement. However, the engineers rose to the challenge and built the gondola in accordance with the specifications of the Finns, the one and only sauna gondola in the world!

The exterior of the sauna gondola

The interior of the sauna gondola

Experiencing the sauna gondola

The ride on the sauna gondola starts at the top of Ylläs when the ski-lift shuts down for skiers in the evening. I was transported to the top in the VIP gondola which comes equipped with a television screen and a small bar, another quirky touch.

Inside the VIP gondola

Once at the top, I was led to the changing room which has an adjacent sauna, a shower area and an outdoor jacuzzi. I changed, had a shower, then grabbed a drink from the well-stocked refrigerator and hopped into the sauna. I was warm and ready for the sauna gondola after ten minutes. With nothing more than a towel draped around my waist, I was led outside to the ski-lift station in sub-zero temperatures (it was minus 12 degrees Celsius or 10 degrees Fahrenheit). I hardly felt the chill. The sauna gondola awaited us, with the temperature inside hovering at around 80 degrees Celsius (170 degrees Fahrenheit). The two sets of doors were closed and off we went. I don’t have any photos or a video of the experience – it would’ve been crazy to take my camera with me into the boiling sauna! – but this promotional photo sourced from Ylläs should give you an idea.

Inside the sauna gondola

The gondola glided silently over the snow-covered slopes of Ylläs, the lights of Ylläs village illuminating the lower slopes. In the distance, I could see mile after mile of forests, interspersed with frozen lakes and small communities. Ylläs looked simply magical in the soft glow of the Arctic twilight.

The Ylläs slopes seen from the VIP ski gondola

we walked around the platform in the snow, barefoot and dressed in nothing but our towels!

As the sauna gondola is only operated after skiing hours, we had the entire ski-lift to ourselves. It was so serene. I sipped on my cold drink, took in the views and engaged in an animated conversation with my guides. We took turns heating up the sauna and we talked about the sauna culture in Finland. They told me that if it became too hot in the cabin, a little window could be opened, but there was no need for it. The intense heat relaxed my body and when I felt too hot, I simply took a big sip of my cold drink. It was hard though to tear my attention away from the stunning scenery outside. When we reached the base station 13 minutes later, the doors opened and we hopped outside onto the platform. During the day, this platform is packed with skiers queuing for the ski-lift but now, it was silent and we walked around the platform in the snow, barefoot and dressed in nothing but our towels!

We hopped back into the gondola for the ride back up the fell. Back at the top, we disembarked from the gondola and headed for the outdoor jacuzzi. As I sat there, I couldn’t help but think how perfect it would be if the northern lights came out to dance for us. Alas, it was too cloudy that evening. After our soak in the jacuzzi, we made our way back to the sauna gondola for another unforgettable round-trip.

Riding the sauna gondola sounded quirky at first. However, when I saw this little engineering marvel and experienced two round trips in it, I realised that this was a truly unique way to enjoy a sauna, a lovely conversation and the stunning views of the Laplandic fells. If I had another chance, I’d do it again in a flash!

The Ylläs slopes

The sauna gondola package costs EUR 1,500 but split amongst up to twelve people, it’s certainly affordable. The package includes use of the sauna facilities (and jacuzzi) and round-trips in the sauna gondola for two hours.

I’ve included below a video (in Finnish with German commentary) to show you what it’s like to ride in the sauna gondola.

Getting there: the closest airport to Ylläs is in Kittila, about a 45-minute drive away. There are scheduled flights from Helsinki as well as a variety of chartered services from various points in Europe.

Note: a big thank you goes to Visit Finland and Ylläs for hosting me in Lapland. As always, all opinions expressed above are mine.

A Finnish sauna like no other is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Read the accompanying post: “Delightful Delft“.

View other Velvet Moments from around the world.

Search for hotels in Delft.

Velvet moments: travel photo – antique market in Delft is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Coastal views along the Camins de Ronda

The name Costa Brava literally means ‘rugged coast’, a reference to the spectacular cliffs and hundreds of coves that line the coast. While the coast is a perennial favourite amongst many Europeans looking for sun, sand and sangria, there’s a lot more to discover starting just a few miles inland in the Baix Empordá region and further inland in the hills of the Garrotxa Volcanic region, such as the gorgeous medieval towns and villages. Steeped in history and home to well-preserved medieval architecture, these towns and villages each have their own charm and attractions. Due to the short distances, many of these medieval villages and towns can easily be explored by means of a leisurely day trip from any point in the Costa Brava. Economy car hire is available in almost every major town, making it a breeze to discover the many historic, cultural and gastronomic highlights that Costa Brava has to offer.

There are dozens of medieval towns and villages in the Costa Brava region but I’ve chosen to highlight five; three near the coast and two in the hills of the Garrotxa. I’ve also added additional tips for things to do and see in the surrounding areas, including some of my favourite restaurants.

Begur and the coast

Begur is a colourful hillside town overlooked by a beautifully restored 16th century castle. It’s a popular town, especially in the summer, due to its proximity to the beaches and a variety of summer festivals. There’s a lovely square, packed with terraces, and cobblestone alleys with a good choice of restaurants and cafés, some tucked away in beautiful courtyards.

Begur

From Begur, take the road to Sa Tuna, a hamlet on the coast with a small beach. The road winds through quiet neighbourhoods and thick forests, and offers beautiful vistas of the rugged coast. A great place to stop for a drink and a meal is the Vintage Lounge – or you can stay at the adjacent Vintage Hotel. Located under a canopy of pine trees on a cliff-edge, Vintage Lounge is a great place to simply chill and watch the waves crash on the rocks below.

The Vintage Lounge, Sa Tuna

Hotel Aigua Blava, one of my favourite hotels on the Costa Brava is located a 15-minute drive away from Begur. It’s a great base from which to explore the coast: the famed Camins de Ronda or the Costa Brava coastal trail passes the hotel’s front entrance; and it is along the trunk road that connects the towns of Begur, Tamariu, Llafranc and Palafrugell.

The Aigua Blava hotel overlooks a gorgeous bay and the blue Mediterranean

For an amazing gastronomic experience with a spectacular view, head for El Far, a restaurant and hotel located on a clifftop near Llafranc, a short drive from Begur. The food (local Catalan and Empordá fare) is absolutely divine and the view of the blue Mediterranean is unforgettable.

El Far

Pals

Pals is one of the most impressive medieval towns in the Costa Brava. Situated in the Baix Empordá, a short distance from Begur and a few kilometers from the coast, Pals’ main attraction is its beautifully restored medieval quarter. Dominated by the Torre de les Hores, an 11th century Romanesque tower, the medieval quarter features quaint alleys lined by ancient stone houses and charming squares. The medieval town wall with its four towers offers stunning views of the Empordá countryside.

Pals (image courtesy of Jakob Tischler)

Pals is also the location of one of my favourite restaurants in Costa Brava. If you’re looking for a casual dining experience with simply fabulous food, I highly recommend Vicus. Situated at the corner of the main road that leads into the centre of Pals (if you’re approaching from Begur), Vicus serves Catalan fare with a modern twist in a contemporary ambiance.

Scallops at Vicus restaurant in Pals

Peratallada

Peratallada is a small, fortified medieval town in the Baix Empordá region. The town, with its 11th century castle (now home to a luxury hotel), 13th century Romanesque church, gorgeous cobblestone streets and picturesque squares, is an absolute delight. It’s a popular place for day-trippers who come here to soak up the medieval atmosphere but stick around in the evenings for a romantic dinner at one of the numerous restaurants.

A quaint street in Peratallada

For a dose of indulgence, I can highly recommend the Mas de Torrent Hotel and Spa, the Costa Brava’s most luxurious hotel, which is situated a short drive away from Peratallada.

The main building at Mas de Torrent

Other medieval towns in the Empordá region that are worth a visit include La Bisbal (with its castle, Jewish quarter and porticoes – it’s also a centre of ceramics and pottery) and the nearby villages of Monells, with its gorgeous medieval square lined by beautiful arches, and Púbol, home of the Gala Dalí castle.

Besalú and the Garrotxa region

Besalú is a stunning medieval town in the hills of the Garrotxa region. The first thing that will grab your attention as you approach the town is the magnificent 12th century Romanesque bridge over the Fluviá river. The bridge leads visitors into the town, with its arcaded streets, cobblestone alleys and squares. There’s a wonderful array of shops selling local produce and handicraft – my favourite shop, at 10, Pont del Besalú, sells all sorts of tea, coffee and chocolates. Other historic monuments in the town include the 11th century Sant Pere church and 12th century Jewish bath (mikveh).

The bridge to Besalú

Reflections of the Besalú bridge over the Fluviá river

Santa Pau is another medieval village in the Garrotxa region that I absolutely love. Located near the Garrotxa Volcanoes, Santa Pau is tiny but boasts gorgeous porticoes, alleys and arcades as well as a 15th century Gothic church. Moreover, this wonderfully atmospheric village is home to another of my favourite restaurants in the Costa Brava: Cal Sastre.

Santa Pau

The heavenly cannelloni at Cal Sastre

You can easily combine a visit to Besalú with the Garrotxa Volcanoes and Santa Pau. From Besalú, follow the A26 motorway in the direction of Olot. Take the Castellfollit de la Roca exit to see this stunning clifftop village, then continue along the A26 motorway to Olot or Santa Pau.

Castellfollit de la Roca

The best time to visit Costa Brava is in May/June or in September/October. This way, you avoid the summer crowds and you’ll truly get to enjoy the natural, historical and culinary highlights of the Costa Brava at a leisurely pace. I’ve pinned the locations of the places mentioned above in the map below. I hope it helps you to discover some of my favourite spots in the Costa Brava.

View Medieval towns Costa Brava in a larger map

Note: this post is brought to you in partnership with CarHireMarket.com.

Medieval towns in the Costa Brava is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Here’s a contribution from Abigail King, the travel blogger/photographer of Inside the Travel Lab.

The water of the Thames looks so majestic in the dark, the streetlights casting streaks like golden tiger stripes across the surface. – Abigail King

Velvet moments: travel photo – the Thames by night is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

A tour of the Snow Village

It doesn’t look like much from the outside – a discreet entrance and mounds of snow surrounded by lovely pine forests.

The entrance to the Snow Village

Mounds of snow

Visitors are greeted in the heated Reception area – this area, along with the adjacent restaurant, is the only permanent structure in the Snow Village. There’s also a television that shows a fascinating documentary of how the village is built (it’s absolutely worth watching!). From the Reception area, two doors lead visitors to two separate sections of the Snow Village: the igloos and chapel, and the Ice Bar. These sections are naturally isolated and remain at a steady minus 5 degrees Celsius (23 degrees Fahrenheit); cold but warmer than the winter temperatures outside, which often hit minus 20 degrees Celsius (-4 degrees Fahrenheit)! I decided to check out the Ice Bar first!

The Ice Bar at the Snow Village

Where dinner is served!

The bar is made of solid ice!

Two things you have to do in the Snow Village: dress warm and enjoy a shot of peppermint vodka served in an ice glass (which you then smash onto the floor!).

Cheers! Finnish peppermint vodka in an ice glass!

Minttu peppermint vodka served in an ice glass

Watch a short video of my stroll around the Ice Bar:

The Snow Hotel

A long passageway from the Reception area takes visitors past all the rooms in the Snow Hotel. It truly is a surreal sight and I had to stop, stare and touch the surfaces many times to allow my mind to properly register the scenes! See for yourself:

The passages were decorated and lit differently

My favourite passage was the Passage of Fire, with its fiery ice sculptures and bright red lighting.

The Passage of Fire

The main passage ends at the Ice Chapel, a bright space covered by a dome, with ice benches, ice columns and classical lines along the wall. Gorgeous!

The Ice Chapel

The Snow Village is a popular spot for weddings. I guess it’s a novel, romantic idea – I was told that the bride arrives at the Chapel in a reindeer sled – but standing there in the Chapel, I couldn’t help but think how cold it was and how long the ceremony would take. In addition, with the virgin white walls, floor and ceiling, I wondered if the bride would simply disappear if she wore a white gown.

What it’s like to spend a night at the Snow Hotel

The Snow Hotel has 20-odd rooms or igloos, some of which are individually decorated suites. Each room has beds made of ice, with a mattress on top. The illuminated ice and snow art in the suites were absolutely beautiful.

One of the suites at the Snow Hotel

The snow and ice provides excellent isolation. As a consequence, the temperature remains stable, albeit below freezing, throughout the hotel. There’s a heated common area in a separate building (exclusively for guests) with bunks, showers, toilets and a Finnish sauna (of course!). Each guest is provided with Arctic thermal sleeping bags and pillows – you take these with you from the heated common area to your room when you turn in for the night. I found the sleeping bags sufficiently warm – there was no need to go to sleep dressed in multiple layers. Climbing into the bed without slipping off the icy edge was a bit of a challenge, as was taking off my jacket and quickly diving into the sleeping bag! I made sure I didn’t drink too much before turning in – I dreaded the consequence of a struggle with a sleeping bag and a long, cold walk to the loo in the middle of the night!

Another gorgeous suite

I slept in the Cupid suite.

It was surely a unique experience to sleep in an illuminated igloo and be surrounded by ice and snow. The ethereal light in the igloo combined with the incredible silence was simply bewildering. However, I felt very confined in the Arctic sleeping bag – I admit, I’m not used to sleeping bags. Moreover, the constant blue glow in the igloo (see the photo of the Cupid suite above) each time I opened my eyes was a bit too otherworldly for me to have a restful sleep. At eight o’clock the next morning, the guests were awoken by the hotel staff who also brought a glass of hot berry juice. I gathered my sleeping bag and pillows and stumbled back to the heated common area before heading to the heated restaurant for breakfast – the hot cup of coffee never felt so good in my hands!

A visit to the Snow Village is a fantastic experience and one I would highly recommend to anyone travelling through Finnish Lapland in the winter. Spending the night in the Snow Hotel is an extraordinary experience but keep in mind that it’s not the most comfortable place for a good night’s sleep.

Getting there: the closest airport is in Kittila, about a 40-minute drive away. There are scheduled flights from Helsinki as well as a variety of chartered services from various points in Europe. The Snow Village in Lainio is also easily accessible from Ylläs.

Note: a big thank you goes to Visit Finland and Ylläs for hosting me in Lapland. As always, all opinions expressed above are mine.

Inside the Snow Village is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Spring is in the air!

A guest post by Amanda Andrews.

Spring is a time of renewal. This is the time of the year when everything is bright and new and, if you’re anything like me, you just want to get outside and feel the warm sun on your face for the first time in months! The English countryside is never better than when everything is waking from its winter slumber and beginning to show its colourful face.

This spring, treat yourself to a relaxing last minute UK cottage holiday and take some time to wander the paths that wend their way through the English countryside and experience the beautiful landscapes and awe inspiring coastlines that the UK is famous for.

Hadrian’s Wall Path

In the north west of England you will find the wall that once marked the northern frontier of the Roman Empire. Stretching the from coast to coast, from Cumbria in the west to Tyneside in the East, the Hadrian’s Wall Path allows visitors to become immersed in the ancient history of Britain.

Hadrian's Wall (image courtesy of Sam & Ian)

Hadrian’s Wall is Europe’s largest surviving Roman monument, becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, and this 140km walk is fast becoming one of the most popular long distance hikes in England. This relatively new path, which was only opened in 2003, follows the Roman wall closely and takes you along the River Tyne, through the farm fields of Northumberland, into the pastures of Cumbria, and finally opening into the salt marshes of the Solway Estuary. With more than eighty short walks which break off of the main trail you don’t have to worry if you can’t invest seven days into the full path. Just imagine settling down to a hearty meal in a country pub at the end of a long day of walking – life doesn’t get much better!

Pembrokeshire Coastal Path

As one of three National Trails which are located in Wales, you can rest assured that the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path will not disappoint – either in terms of views or the amenities available along the way. The 186 mile trail works its way along the Pembrokeshire Coast, which is the only coastline in Britain to be designated as a National Park.

Pembrokeshire Coastal Path (image courtesy of CLS Photos)

The variety of landscapes that you will travel through while walking the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path is astonishing, ranging from steep limestone cliffs and red sandstone bays, to flooded glacial valleys. Take a break along your walk to do some wildlife spotting, with nesting seabirds, dolphins, seals, and porpoises regularly spotted along the way. From picturesque harbours and unspoilt villages, to medieval castle ruins and magnificent cathedrals, there is a never ending supply of beauty and history to be explored along the trail. You can even visit St. David, which claims the title of the smallest city in Britain as well as being the place from which St. Patrick set sail for Ireland in the 5th century.

The Cotswold Way

Follow along the Cotswold escarpment to experience the most tranquil and quintessentially English of walks, which travels form Chipping Campden in the north to the iconic World Heritage city of Bath in the south. The Cotswold Way spans over 100 miles and takes visitors through some of the most breathtaking countryside and charming villages that England has to offer.

The Cotswold Way (image courtesy of Clay Pole)

The Cotswold Way one of England’s premier long distance walking routes and is a great option for first timers as it wends its way through gentle hills and valleys and the local villages offer a great place to take a well deserved break along the way. One of the best stops along the route is Sudeley Castle near Winchcombe, which has been the site of royal gossip and intrigue for more than a thousand years.

Sudeley Castle (image courtesy of Gordon Robertson)

Sudeley Castle was once the home to Queen Katherine Parr, the last of Henry VIII six wives, and it is here that she has been interred. 2012 marks Katherine’s quincentenary (that would be 500th birthday) and will be celebrated with historical events throughout the season at the castle. The Cotswold Way is a very special national trail and the Cotswold National Trail Office runs a Hall of Fame for those who finish the whole trek – filling out a simple card along the way will bag you a pin or badge for you to proudly display. That will be one well earned pin!

If you don’t fancy setting off on one of these walks on your own there are numerous guiding companies who can help you along the way, whether you want to take a fully guided trip or just have someone transport your bags between stops. Just pack up a few snacks, tighten up those boot laces and you’re off!

The UK is filled with breathtaking walks, from short rambles with the family to long distance treks across the beautiful countryside. Walking is really a unique way to experience a country and it’s something we really don’t do enough of. Consider taking a slower type of holiday and immerse yourself completely in the landscape and history of this lovely little island.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with Sykes Cottages.

Iconic walks in the English countryside is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Eclectic styles, Skanderberg Square (image courtesy of net_effekt)

History

Albania as a nation was subject to the pre-history of the Greeks, the Illyrians, the Romans and later the Ottomans. The result of these influences is an amalgam of culturally diverse architectural features such as places of worship and aristocratic or royal residences. Once such place is the Et’Hem Bay Mosque in the centre of the Albanian capital Tirana. The mosque certainly warrants a visit because of its astounding beauty and historical worth. Skanderberg Square in Tirana offers an abundance of this history, being the typically Albanian mix-up of cultural influences with an ancient cobbled square shaped as a horseshoe, surrounded by Mussolini’s 1930′s government buildings.

For the history buffs, the National Museum of History in Tirana has extensive collections of Albania’s turbulent cultural past, with articles pre-dating 95,000 BC offering a fascinating show of tangible, not to mention stunning regional cultural history. There is also the Archaeological Museum near Durrës, set along the waterfront of this magnificent coast, and offering a full range of Greek, Hellenistic, and Roman artefacts.

A trip to Albania would not be complete without a visit to one of its ancient fortresses such as the fascinating Rozafa Fortress near Shkodra and the museum town of Berat, with its beautiful Ottoman houses in a striking mountain setting.

Wondrous landscapes

Saranda (image courtesy of Brett Wayn)

The Ionian Coast in Albania is one of the most beautiful stretches of coast in Eastern Europe and is even said to contend with Croatia’s awe-inspiring Dalmatian Coast. This stunning part of Albania’s coastline features steep crags, towering mountains and a string of hidden coves and beaches. One of Albania’s most charming seaside towns, Saranda, is located here. Nearby attractions include the Syri i Katterc spring and gorgeous beaches near the village of Ksamili. There are a range of sea- and land-based activities along the Ionian Coast like kayaking and hiking to get involved with thanks to the tour company ‘Outdoor Albania’, who promote eco-tourism along this stretch of Adriatic and Ionian coastline. Tours include sea-kayaking excursions with stays in traditional villages along the coast.

In the north, the Albanian Alps are famous for its dramatic peaks, crystalline lakes and quaint villages. A ride on the ferry across Komani lake is a great way to enjoy the rugged scenery and mingle with the locals. ‘Outdoor Albania’ also offers hiking trips in the Albanian Alps.

Sit back and relax or join the party

Two of the country’s most popular drinking holes couldn’t be more different. Bar Torra, located in the city of Durrës, is a chic bar and café with a stunning view. Located inside a fortified Venetian tower, Bar Torra was one of the very first privately owned cafés to be set up in Albania, and it owes its existence to a team of keen local artists who took the time to decorate and revive this structure into what is today a vibrant and cool destination. Sit back, enjoy the view and one of the local brews.

For a memorable night out, the Oxygen Beach-bar in Pogradec on the shores of Lake Ohrid is one of the most popular party destinations with a private pool and beach, as well as the very best dance music.

If you want to save money before you go then Tours4fun coupon codes may just do the trick!

Note: this post is brought to you in partnership with CouponCodes4U.

Inside Albania is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

We were invited to London to celebrate a friend’s wedding on the 31st of December. It was fantastic! As we were already in London we also did some sightseeing. I’ve never been on the London Eye, so we decided to go for it. It was stormy and it was getting dark. Perfect conditions! So we were up there, above the clouds and above London, my wife, our little-travel-dude and myself. – Melvin

Read the accompanying post from Traveldudes: ‘Above the Clouds of London – the London Eye Experience‘.

Velvet moments: travel photo – above the clouds of London is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Floating in an icy pool in a frozen lake!

Ice-floating is one of many winter activities in Finnish Lapland. In Ylläs (pronounced as ‘Ool-las’), the premier winter sports destination in Finland, you can book an ice-floating session at Ylläs Adventures. They have an office at Lake Ylläsjärvi, just outside Ylläs, from which all sorts of activities are organised, including husky-sledding, reindeer and snowmobile safaris.

The smoke sauna

It’s a short stroll to the lake from their office. We passed the smoke sauna (a traditional Lappish experience) before being led into a cute house where I was hoisted, fully-clothed, into a thick survival suit. These suits were designed for Arctic expeditions but here in Ylläs, they have a more relaxing purpose: to keep you warm and afloat in the icy water of the frozen Lake Ylläsjärvi. I had a look at myself in the mirror and burst out laughing – I looked like a Teletubby in that bulky suit!

I know, I look ridiculous in this Teletubby suit!

Once we were tightly strapped in, we received the green light to venture outside. We trudged through the snow to the lake which was completely frozen except for a ‘pool’ that had been carved out of the ice. After a few instructions, I slowly lowered myself onto the ladder and into the water. The air in the suit rushed from the legs to my upper body, creating a vacuum effect around my legs and the opposite effect around my upper body (which started to look like the ‘Michelin Man’!). Once my feet touched the lake bed, I allowed myself to lean backwards and drift away.

Descending into the water with my bloated upper body

The first thought that crossed my mind was the sensation of floating in mid-air. “Is this what it feels like in zero-gravity?”, I pondered. The water was calm and the suit kept me warm and snug. My mind and body relaxed in an instant. I lifted my head up every so often to remind myself of where I was. It was surreal to see the frozen lake, the snow-covered trees and the icy water I was in. The only part of my body that started to get cold were my hands.

Drifting away.....

...into a blissfull state!

I floated in the pool for about 20-odd minutes in a blissful state before paddling back to the ladder. It was an unworldly experience, one that I would highly recommend to anyone looking for a surreal (and very relaxing) winter experience in Lapland.

Getting there: the closest airport to Ylläs is in Kittilä, about a 40-minute bus-ride away. There are scheduled flights from Helsinki as well as a variety of chartered services from various points in Europe to Kittilä.

Note: a big thank you goes to Visit Finland and Ylläs for hosting me in Lapland. As always, all opinions expressed above are mine.

Ice-floating in Lapland is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

The Northern Lights in Finnish Lapland (image courtesy of Visit Finland)

The Northern Lights or the Aurora Borealis, the dancing lights in the northern sky, is a phenomenon I’ve always wanted to see. I think I first read about it when I was about eight-years-old. I saw a picture and description about it in a geographic encyclopedia my parents had given me and I was awestruck. I promised myself that I would one day see it. That day may happen this week! I’ll be in Lapland (the part of it in Finland) for the next few days, in Ylläs to be precise. Located about 150km north of the Arctic Circle, in Finnish Lapland, I should have a pretty good chance of seeing the Northern Lights in the resort of Ylläs for two reasons: the winter of 2011/2012 is the peak of the eleven-year cycle of the Northern Lights, and Lapland is one of the best places in the world to view it. From what I’ve heard, the Northern Lights have been dancing around in the sky almost every night in the past few weeks. As you can imagine, I’m keeping my fingers tightly crossed that they’ll keep dancing when I’m there and that the sky is clear for an unobstructed view.

Dog-sledding in Lapland (image courtesy of Visit Finland)

I’m also looking forward to many unique experiences in Finnish Lapland, like a ride in the Sauna Gondola. I had an inkling of what it would be when I first heard about it but the idea seemed too far-fetched – lo and behold, my thoughts were soon confirmed. Yes, it’s a Finnish sauna in a gondola or cable-car! This video should give you an idea!

I’ll also be going on a snowshoe trek across the hills around Ylläs, a husky safari and I’ll be staying at the Snow Village where everything, from the rooms (igloos) to the restaurant and bar are made from snow and ice. There will also be opportunities to experience an authentic Finnish sauna and a quick plunge in an icy lake! Oh, and for the ultimate Arctic ‘indulgence’: an Arctic peat bath at the Ylläs Saaga Resort! I’m not exactly sure what that is yet but I’ll let you know as soon as I find out!

All in all, it promises to be an amazing four-day trip. My bags are packed with loads of warm clothing, my camera batteries are fully charged and I’m ready to go. I’ve never been this far north and it would certainly be a dream come true if I get to see the Northern Lights. It’s going to be freezing cold – temperatures of minus 30 degrees Celsius or minus 22 degrees Fahrenheit were recorded in the past week – but I’m sure it’ll be an experience of a lifetime!

The Snow Hotel (image courtesy of the Snow Village)

A huge thank you goes to Visit Finland for hosting me in Lapland. Follow my trip to Finnish Lapland on Twitter via the hashtag #VEinLapland or via the Twitter feed below (tweets in the feed below may load slowly during busy periods):

Experiencing the Arctic wonders of Finnish Lapland is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Image courtesy of El Tito

Málaga is in Andalusia, on the Costa del Sol in southern Spain, a ferry’s journey north of Morocco. Owing to its location, it has a warm climate and some of the warmest winters in Europe. For those intending to find cheap holidays in Málaga, consider booking between April and November when the average daily temperature is above 20 °C, and the waters of the Mediterranean Sea are particularly inviting. The most obvious attraction of Málaga are its sun-kissed beaches but remember to explore the numerous palaces, churches, gardens, museums and art that are also in abundance in the city.

A long and colourful history

In addition to its climate, Málaga has a long and colourful history. Founded under the name “Malaka” by the Phoenicians as far back as 770 BC, and later ruled by the Romans and Arabs before becoming a requisition of the Spaniards, the city hosts remains from eras spanning 3,000 years. Attracting history enthusiasts interested in Ancient Carthage, Roman, Arab and the Spanish of the Middle Ages, Málaga is something of a sweeping museum across time. Evidence  of Málaga’s rich history can be viewed at the Museo de Málaga.

Malaga Cathedral (image courtesy of alvarogd)

History buffs will also love the various monuments such as the 11th century Alcazaba Citadel (with its towers and gardens – there’s also a stunning view across the bay from here), the 14th century Gibralfaro Castle and the Roman Theatre in the old inner city. The Málaga Cathedral, with its Gothic, Renaissance and baroque influences, is also an impressive attraction whilst at the Palace of the Marqués de Valdeflores, visitors have the opportunity to explore the exquisite interior of the home of an 18th century aristocrat.

The birthplace of Pablo Picasso

Picasso in Malaga (image courtesy of Landahlauts)

Málaga is also the birthplace of world-famous artist, Pablo Picasso. Tourists can visit the Museo Picasso Málaga, which is located in the artist’s childhood home in Plaza de la Merced and displays nearly 300 works donated by members of Picasso’s family. This museum joins the ranks of a number of institutions dedicated to the city’s artistic pursuits, including (but not limited to) the Carmen Thyssen Museum, the fine arts and archaeology museum: Museo de Málaga, and CAC Málaga (museum of modern art).

After a day at the beach or exploring the city, sit down with a glass of sweet Málaga wine. Made from local Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel grape varieties, you’ll soon find yourself packing a bottle for your journey home.

Note: this post was brought to you in partnership with Thomson Holidays.

History and art on the Sunshine Coast is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

It wasn’t long ago that I had a glass of wine at the Skylounge atop the Mint Hotel Tower of London. As I sat there, I thought about the hotel’s grand location near the banks of the Thames right across from the Tower of London. The City, London’s historic and financial heart is literally just a stone’s throw away. London’s City Hall, housed in an egg-like structure designed by Norman Foster, is across the river, whilst one of my favourite spots in London, St. Katherine’s Docks, a lovely marina with historic lock bridges, is a few minutes walk away. I couldn’t take my eyes off of the phenomenal view across the Thames, with the iconic Tower Bridge prominently in the foreground. I’ve recommended this hotel to friends who had business meetings in The City or who were attending events at the ExCel exhibition centre simply because of its excellent location in EC3. With the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games in London, there’s another reason to stay at this hotel: its proximity and convenient access to the London Olympic Park. Stratford Station, one of the main gateways to the Olympic Park, is just a short hop away.

A convenient location for visitors to the London Olympic Games

The Mint Hotel Tower of London has since been added to the Hilton brand and has reopened as DoubleTree Tower of London. The name may have changed but the hotel maintains a contemporary design with its bright atrium and airy rooms, some of which have stunning views of The City or the Tower of London. Each room comes equipped with a flat-screen television, an iMac and FREE WIFI (a huge plus in my book!). I especially love the mist-free mirrors and the power showers! Another thing that hasn’t changed is the Skylounge – the views of the Gherkin (one of the most prominent buildings in The City) and the Tower Bridge from the rooftop terrace are truly spectacular. The DoubleTree Tower of London’s great location is its biggest draw. Some of London’s most iconic landmarks like the Tower of London and Tower Bridge are practically next door. The shops and restaurant scene in The City are a short walk away whilst the Globe and Barbican Theatres are within easy reach. There are a variety of Tube and train stations within several minutes walk of the hotel, making it very convenient to get to other parts of London or to the Olympic Park. If you’re visiting London for business or pleasure, or for the Olympic Games, check out the convenience and comforts of the DoubleTree Tower of London.

Read about Velvet Escape’s recommended things to see and do in London.

Note: this is a sponsored post - as always, views expressed in this post are mine.

DoubleTree Tower of London – a new name in a grand location is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Velvet moments: travel photo – a winter sunset in Amsterdam is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful! A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems …a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!…

The Duomo in Milan

The crown of spires

The Duomo is arguably Milan’s most famous monument and attracts millions of visitors every year. The ornate interior is nothing short of breathtaking but before you step inside, explore the elaborate exterior, with its sculptures, columns and a roof that bursts into a crown of spires, each topped by a unique statue.

The elaborate spires and arches of the Duomo's façade

The best way to admire the Duomo’s impressive exterior is to do the roof-climb – or you could simply take the elevator! The path winds its way around the upper levels, offering visitors magnificent close-ups of the intricate stone sculptures, spires, gargoyles and statues. The close-ups and the views across Milan and of the nearby Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II are absolutely stunning.

Statues atop the spires

The sun peeks through the spires

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II seen through the spires

A stairway takes visitors to the rooftop where they can sit and enjoy the views of the spires – look for the polychrome Madonna statue atop the highest spire (at a dizzying height of 109 meters or roughly 360 feet). If it’s a clear day, I recommend doing the roof-climb just before sunset. It’s a magical experience to see the pinnacles and statues bathed in the orangy-pink glow from the sun.

The roof of the Duomo

Away above, on the lofty roof, rank on rank of carved and fretted spires spring high in the air, and through their rich tracery one sees the sky beyond. … (Up on) the roof…springing from its broad marble flagstones, were the long files of spires, looking very tall close at hand, but diminishing in the distance…We could see, now, that the statue on the top of each was the size of a large man, though they all looked like dolls from the street… They say that the Cathedral of Milan is second only to St. Peter’s at Rome. I cannot understand how it can be second to anything made by human hands. – Mark Twain

Mark Twain’s spirited description of the Duomo’s exterior inspired me to spend more time to explore this architectural wonder. The crown of spires certainly took my breath away.

Search for hotels in Milan.

The spires of the Duomo is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

A delicious cava under the porticoes of Cal Sastre

What: Fine-dining at a small medieval village in the Garrotxa region of Catalonia.

Where: Cal Sastre restaurant, Santa Pau.

Notes: Santa Pau is a sleepy medieval village in the Garrotxa Volcanic region of Catalonia, north of Barcelona. The village is tiny but there are a variety of reasons that make a visit absolutely worthwhile: its medieval porticoes, alleys and arches; its 15th century Gothic church; and one of the finest culinary gems in the region: Cal Sastre.

I first visited Cal Sastre during the #InCostaBrava blog trip in May 2011. We had spent the morning at arguably one of the best restaurants in the world, El Bulli, where we had the opportunity to meet Ferran Adriá and taste some of his world famous cuisine. From El Bulli, we made our way to the Garrotxa Volcanic region and stopped at Santa Pau, where we were led on a walking tour that ended at the porticoes of Cal Sastre.

What followed was an unforgettable lunch consisting of the best wild mushroom cannelloni I’ve ever had and an equally superb Crema Catalana. The contrast between the cutting-edge cuisine at El Bulli and the wholesome goodness of traditional Catalan fare at Cal Sastre couldn’t have been greater! Needless to say, it was a culinary experience I won’t easily forget.

Santa Pau

The highlight of the meal was the wild mushroom cannelloni, topped with a sprinkling of crushed black truffles and pistachio nuts. The rich flavours of the wild mushrooms and cream combined superbly with the soft, smooth texture of the cannelloni. Each mouthful felt like a spoonful of heaven and I greedily swept through three whole servings!

The heavenly cannelloni

I returned to the Costa Brava in July to explore more of the region and I made sure I had ample time for another round of heaven at Cal Sastre. I was welcomed with a big hug and a delicious cava. After consulting with Jesús, the proprietor, I ordered the cannelloni, tuna tataki with trout caviar and the steak with morel sauce. The cannelloni was just as good as the first time but I limited myself to a single serving this time around! The tuna tataki was incredibly fresh and blended beautifully with the slightly salty caviar. A pinch of wasabi was sufficient to complete the dish.

Tuna tataki with trout caviar

The steak soon followed, complemented by a gorgeous red wine from the Montsant region (Clos del Gos 2009/Montsant/grenache, samso & syrah). The meat was very tender and juicy, grilled to perfection (medium, just the way I like my steaks) and served with a creamy morel sauce and green asparagus. Absolutely stunning! The morel sauce was superb but the springy texture and rich flavour of the meat and the way it was expertly cooked took centre-stage. It was another phenomenal dining experience at Cal Sastre!

The steak with morel sauce

I highly recommend Cal Sastre to anyone passing through this part of Catalonia. Drop by for an unforgettable meal or stay for a few days – the proprietor, Jesús, has a rather quirky hotel (a must see, to be honest!) in the village. You’ll love it!

Hotel Cal Sastre

Note: my first trip to Costa Brava was part of the #InCostaBrava blog trip organised by the Costa Brava Tourism Board. As always, all views expressed in this post are mine.

Culinary Journey: Cal Sastre in Santa Pau is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Dokkum - one of the towns of the Elfstedentocht (image courtesy of Thea Sijtsma)

It’s that time of the year again, when the thermometer hanging outside my window shows a lower reading than the display on my freezer. When I first moved to the Netherlands more than 20 years ago, one of the first things that caught my attention was the Dutch people’s preoccupation with ice. As soon as the first frost arrives, you can almost literally feel the excitement build up. The media joins in with vigour and if the frost continues, so does the frequency of weather updates whilst the discussions about the condition of the ice in the rivers, lakes and canals across the country gain momentum. The reason: ice-skating is the national winter sport – the large number of speed-skating medals the Dutch have amassed at the Winter Olympics only confirms this. But this is only the start of the Dutch winter frenzy!

The ‘Elfstedentocht’

As temperatures stay below the freezing point, you’ll soon find people out on their skates and the media is flooded with images of ice-skating fever from around the country. Technical terms like ‘black ice’ (describing the quality of the ice) become commonplace. Soon, all eyes are focused on the province of Friesland, home of the (in)famous ‘Elfstedentocht‘ or the Eleven Cities Tour. The ‘Elfstedentocht’ is the world’s longest speed-skating competition, with a course that winds 200km along frozen lakes, rivers and canals and past eleven historic Frisian towns. The competition is held only when strict conditions are met, such as the thickness of the ice along the entire 200km course – the last Elfstedentocht was held in 1997. Each ‘Elfstedentocht’ is preceded by a period of intense speculation and once the start-shot is sound, it’s met with something akin to national hysteria. The past winners were hailed as national heroes. As I write this, the ‘Elfstedentocht’ commission is busy planning the next edition, which, barring a premature thaw, could possibly be held this weekend. The name is on everyone’s lips and not an hour goes by without a mention of it on the radio or television.

Set against a decor of quintessentially Dutch winter scenes (think snowy fields, frozen canals, quaint villages and windmills), participating in or standing at the sidelines of the Elfstedentocht is an extraordinary experience for both locals and visitors alike.

Ice-skating on the canals of Amsterdam

Ice-skating fever hits the country as soon as the authorities give the green light for enthusiasts to venture out onto the ice. In my town, that means one thing: getting your skates out for a fun afternoon out on the frozen canals of Amsterdam.

Amsterdam winter scenes: bicycles, canal mansions and people out on the ice!

Canal boats are barred from passing through selected canals, such as the Keizersgracht, and that’s where you’ll find Amsterdammers out on their skates.

Out on the Keizersgracht

Amsterdammers come out in full force with their friends and families to enjoy the cold weather and a fun afternoon on ice-skates!

A group of friends out on the ice

A mother takes her baby out for a err... skate!

Mum on skates and her child in a sled (with hot choco!). Sweet!

Canal boat landings double in the winter as benches for the skaters to get geared up for the ice!

Getting ready for the ice!

The frozen Keizersgracht

For visitors, it’s a special treat to witness these winter scenes in the UNESCO World Heritage listed Amsterdam city centre. If this frosty period continues, expect more activities on the ice such as speed-skating competitions, marathons and festivals!

The Dutch winter frenzy is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Westminster Abbey is one of the London landmarks that I always think takes an entire day to itself. I know some people ‘do’ it in an hour and a bit, but it is the sort of place that richly repays a more leisurely, lingering visit. And there’s far more to it than it being simply where Wills and Kate tied the knot!

Westminter Abbey (image courtesy of slurm)

Originally a monastic church (founded by Edward the Confessor, though none of his building survives), it became the coronation church of the English monarchs; only two since 1066 have not been crowned here, Edward V and VIII – and that’s because they weren’t crowned at all (Edward V was one of the ‘Princes in the Tower’ who disappeared mysteriously and Edward VIII abdicated to marry Wallis Simpson). It’s not surprising then that it holds the tombs of many English kings and nobility; but it also fulfils part of the role of the French Pantheon, with Poet’s Corner commemorating English writers.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (image courtesy of Herry)

Most visitors head there for its history – the tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the Coronation Chair (now minus the Stone of Scone though, which has been returned to Scotland). But there is also a huge amount of art history in the Abbey – as well as some oddities. I’ve mixed them up together in this article; I’ve also suggested some ways you can link your visit with other nearby monuments and sights, for instance going on to the National Gallery or Charing Cross or across the road to Westminster Hall.

By the way, the monuments are actually quite a good way to acquaint yourself with the evolution of western art, from the Middle Ages through to the present day.

You can quite easily follow the changes in taste – medieval kings lying in state, formal and linear; the Renaissance tombs, more realistic, showing their inhabitants reclining or kneeling; the eighteenth century with its weeping angels and figures of death with his scythe, and often with symbols taken from real life – cannons, telescopes, ships; and even modern works, such as the stained glass window commemorating the airmen of the Battle of Britain.

Westminster Abbey (image courtesy of Bruchez)

Here is my guided tour of Westminster Abbey:

• As you come into the Abbey you’ll see the great vault that covers the nave. People will often tell you that medieval architects were anonymous – but this one certainly wasn’t; it’s the work of Henry Yevele, started in 1362. We know a lot about Yevele; he worked at Canterbury Cathedral and on several of the king’s castles and palaces, and he also built the amazing roof at Westminster Hall, just across the road. So as you go out of the Abbey, take another look at the vault; and then, if you can get on a tour of the Palace of Westminster, you’ll be able to compare his other great work with this.
• The painting of Richard II that hangs at the west end of the Abbey is something many visitors miss. Richard was a great patron of the arts, which he used to promote his concept of sacred kingship. Politically, it was a failure – he was deposed by Henry IV and died in suspicious circumstances not much later on – but artistically, it created the most elegant and beautiful art of the English middle ages. He was also a patron of the poet Chaucer. You can compare this painting to his tomb effigy (also in the Abbey), then walk up the road to the National Gallery to see the Wilton Diptych, a tiny gem-like painting of the king with his patron saints and choirs of angels.
• The royal effigies in the cathedral museum are an incredible witness to history; they were not intended to decorate the tomb, but were placed on top of the coffin for the royal funeral. Again there’s a comparison to be made; Edward III’s funeral effigy has the drooping mouth of an old man killed by a stroke (and originally had eyebrows made out of dogs’ hair) – but his fine tomb effigy shows the mature king in his pride, with flowing hair and sad dignity.
• There are only three competitors for the prize of best English Perpendicular Gothic – Gloucester cathedral cloister, King’s College Chapel and the wonderful Chapel of Henry VIIhere in the Abbey. This is certainly the most fanciful of the three, with pendant bosses like stalactites and the most complex tracery in its vault – and the outside, with its pinnacles and golden weather vanes, is also exceptional. Henry VII was a king who stood at the frontiers of the middle ages and the Renaissance and it’s quite fitting that while the chapel is the last flourish of Gothic, his tomb and effigy should be by an Italian artist, Pietro Torrigiano, who had studied with Michelangelo (and reputedly smacked the senior artist one on the nose during a dispute). You can see how realistic the figure is compared to earlier tombs – the drapery looks real, the face is a naturalistic portrait (the tomb of Margaret Beaufort, Henry’s mother, is also by Torrigiano). Look out for the heraldic badges that decorate the chapel – the daisy or Marguerite (for Margaret), the Beaufort portcullis, the lions of England and fleur de lis of France, and Edward IV’s badge of the falcon with padlock
  

  Henry VII's chapel (image courtesy of Herry)

• Of course you want to see the Coronation Chair. But it’s just a chair, albeit a very ornate medieval one. The thing I really love about it though, is the set of little lions that support it. Now the chair dates from 1297, but the lions were only added in 1727 as replacements for ones that were a couple of hundred years older. But oh my goodness don’t they look disgruntled! They certainly want you to think they’ve been oppressed by the massive oak weight of the chair for more than just a couple of centuries.
• The effigy of Eleanor of Castile is a lovely work by William Torel, goldsmith, dating from 1291. Torel made it by casting a bronze figure by the lost-wax technique, then gilding it; the sculpture is noble and magnificent. Torel actually made two – one for the cathedral in Lincoln where Eleanor died, and this one for where she is buried. Along the way, her heartbroken widower Edward I erected Eleanor Crosses where her body rested – you can see a replica of the original at Charing Cross just up the road. Ironically, Edward has no effigy at all – just a plain marble tomb. Torel also made the effigy for Henry III.
• Newton’s tombis a magnificent creation of the Enlightenment to contrast with the medieval work you’ve seen elsewhere. Little boys use the telescope and play with the prisms. Does the globe look a bit strange? That’s because it’s a celestial globe showing the zodiac, not the earth – and a figure of Astronomy sits on top of it
  

  Newton's tomb (image courtesy of Herry)

• In the north aisle, don’t miss the tiny gravestone of Shakespeare’s contemporary Ben Jonson, with its inscription: ‘O rare Ben Jonson’. Its small size is explained by the fact that he was buried standing up – to save paying for a larger space.
• The West Front of the Abbey is one of my favourite London fakes. It’s not medieval at all, even though it looks it. It was in fact designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor and Christopher Wren, whose other works are uncompromisingly modern (like St Paul’s Cathedral, for instance). If you want to see a real medieval façade, look at the north entrance, opposite St Margaret’s church, and you’ll see the difference.
• Elizabeth I, if you ask me, got the short straw when they handed out Renaissance art. Her grandfather Henry VII got a magnificent tomb by the Italian, Torrigiano; she got a work by Flemish artist Maximilian Colt which, while majestic, and probably realistic, certainly doesn’t show her at her best. A hook nose, a sour frown and a double chin. She also has to share her grave with her half-sister, Mary I. Since Mary imprisoned Elizabeth and might well have considered having her executed, I don’t think either of them would have been too keen on the tomb-share.
• Much cuter is the monument Colt made for Sophia Rosula Stuart, the baby daughter of James I – a little cradle. He also made the memorial for her sister Mary Stuart, who died at just two and a half. Both of them are in the north aisle of Henry VII’s Chapel.
• Heraldic beasts come in all sizes and shapes – the porcupine at the feet of Lady Frances Sidney is my favourite (in St Paul’s chapel), bristling with real spikes in blue and gold – though the ferocious red lion on the tomb of Mary Queen of Scots runs it close.
• Don’t miss the chapter house, with its single pillar supporting the roof and fine medieval tile pavement. Look particularly at the lovely crisp leaves of the capitals, delicate but decisive carving. This chapter house, incidentally, has a place in the history of English democracy – the first King’s Councils were held here, before moving across the way to the Palace of Westminster
  

  Chapter house (image courtesy of Duncan)

• I was in two minds about whether to mention the Cosmatesque pavement, because it is apparently quite often invisible. It’s highly unusual, because the Cosmati family of masons worked in Rome and southern Italy, and you hardly ever see their marble inlay work anywhere else. Henry III brought the master Odericus from Rome to create this masterpiece – it’s a strictly geometrical pavement, designed around a quincunx – five linked roundels. It bears an inscription which makes it quite clear that it’s a microcosm, a symbolic representation of the universe; weirder and more convoluted than anything you’ll find in the Da Vinci Code (which leaves it out)!
• Look out for the pun in the Islip chapel. Abbot Islip built it as a chantry where prayers would be said for his soul, and he decorated it with his rebus, a play on words – it shows an eye and a ‘slip’, a small twig or branch, giving ‘eye-slip’, his name. But there’s a second one, as well, on the lintel – a little man falling out of a tree – ‘I slip!’ I bet the good abbot did cryptic crosswords.

By the way, please don’t call Westminster Abbey a cathedral. It’s actually a royal peculiar – that is, a place of worship that falls under the monarch’s jurisdiction and doesn’t belong to a diocese, with the status of a collegiate church. It was originally the church of a monastery and was only ever a cathedral for ten years, from 1540 to 1550. If you want to see a cathedral, you’ve got two choices – St Paul’s is the cathedral of the Anglican diocese of London, while a little closer to the Abbey, Westminster Cathedral is the church of the Roman Catholic diocese of Westminster.

If you are planning to visit Westminster Abbey and want a convenient hotel, you may wish to choose from a range of contemporary central London hotels which are only a short tube or taxi ride away.

This post was brought to you in partnership with London Hotels Insight.

A guided tour of Westminster Abbey is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Velvet moments: travel photo – fields of tulips in Holland is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Velvet moments: travel photo – Noordwijk beach sunset is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog

Countryside in Cornwall (image courtesy of Nellie Windmill)

When it comes to food it’s probably fair to say that we’d associate Cornwall with its famous crimped pasty, clotted cream ices dripping down a cone, waist busting cream teas and pilchards from Newlyn. All of this is indeed true, and wonderful (and not so wonderful) examples of the Cornish classics that can be found all round this beautiful peninsula county. However, in recent years a food renaissance has been quietly building in Cornwall with quality eateries opening up all over the Duchy.

Rick Stein & the Cornish foodie revolution

One of the names that inevitably comes to mind when talking about this change in the perception of Cornwall as a food destination is Rick Stein. Of course Rick Stein is not the be all and end all of this foodie revolution and there are many that would argue that there are plenty of local chefs who have been doing great things with local ingredients for years. But it’s fair to say it’s taken a couple of high profile TV chefs to shine the gourmand’s spotlight on Cornwall, giving other excellent chefs and eating establishments the exposure they deserve and driving standards up across the county.

Surrounded by sea on three sides it’s unsurprising that many of the best places to eat centre around fish and seafood but look around and there are some real gems that might just take you by surprise. We’ve had the pleasure of eating at a number of incredible Cornish restaurants and with a little help from our friend Lee Trewhela, Arts and Leisure Editor at the West Briton, Cornish Guardian and Cornishman, we’ve put together a smorgasbord of our ten favourite eating places in Cornwall.

The Ultimate Foodies Guide to Cornwall

Serving modern European and excelling in fish dishes, Restaurant Nathan Outlaw at the St Enodoc Hotel, Rock is the only 2 Michelin Star restaurant in Cornwall and deservedly so. Nathan Outlaw is one the UK’s top chefs and currently runs two restaurants at the St Enodoc Hotel, both of which offer simple and contemporary dishes centred around exquisite fish and seafood dishes. For the full, formal 2 Michelin starred experience then booking early at Restaurant Nathan Outlaw is a must. The set tasting menu changes frequently and is driven by locally caught seafood and beautiful Cornish produce. It’s also worth splashing out and taking the wine flight with the tasting menu as the sommelier Damon always marries the flavours perfectly and has a relaxed, engaging way of introducing the wines at table so that non wine buffs can understand his thinking behind the pairings. With a tasting menu at £75 and the wine flight at £65 for a 2 Michelin star experience it really is incredible value for money.

No. 6 Padstow

Another restaurant nearby that prides itself in creating unpretentious dishes using the best in local produce and serving up food that makes you smile is Paul Ainsworth at No 6 in Padstow. Alongside the great food is an admirable philosophy that fine dining should be available to everyone – they welcome children and do not have a dress code, which definitely gives it a friendly, relaxed feel. Set in a Georgian townhouse with contemporary décor this is a small restaurant that offers fantastic value for money. The bread here is a particular speciality as is the use of humble ingredients, such as ox cheek, lambs liver, and mackerel, with the kitchen employing modern cooking techniques that really unlock their great flavours and textures. Starters come in at around £10, mains £20 and desserts £8. The express lunch menu is excellent value for money with two courses for £13, three courses for £17 or three courses and wine flight at £35. Big things are expected of Paul, who has also taken over Rojano’s In The Square, a great Italian in the heart of Padstow.

The first thing to note about The Driftwood at Portscatho is its dramatic cliff-top location on the Roseland Peninsula, with breath taking views over Gerrans Bay… and then there’s the incredible food. Head Chef Chris Eden, who is a bonafide Cornishman, has rightly received a Michelin Star and is now the only other current restaurant in Cornwall to hold one alongside Nathan Outlaw. Chris is a quite brilliant chef who is passionate about locally-sourced food. All the wonderful fish and shellfish is sourced from Cornish waters and the meat is locally reared – the boeuf en daube is melt-in-the-mouth magnificence personified. Expect dishes such as steamed brill, sea beet, spaghetti and truffle sabayon or John Dory with leeks and Jerusalem artichoke purée followed by prune and Armagnac soufflé with Earl Grey ice cream. It’s great to see that without compromising on style and a relaxed atmosphere children get the same quality treatment and food as the adults and early suppers can be prepared for them.

Seafood at Barclay House

Another modern British restaurant worth a mention is Barclay House at Looe where quiet wonders are being served up by head chef Benjamin Palmer who has just been awarded ‘Chef of the Year 2011′ by Cornwall Life magazine. Barclay House is set up on the hillside overlooking the fishing harbour and has also picked up a Taste of the West Gold Award and South West Restaurant of the Year 2010 for its simple, inspiring dishes created using local produce. Value for money here is exceptional with a six course taster menu offering Looe scallops, local venison loin and grilled lemon sole for only £35. Don’t be fooled by the simple menu; the taste and presentation elevates these humble sounding dishes to another level.

A newbie on the Cornish foodie scene is Austell’s at Carlyon Bay. The food is cleverly prepared and beautifully presented European bistro food and the atmosphere in the restaurant is relaxed and informal. The kitchen opens onto the restaurant so you can see the chefs at work which is always a treat. The food itself is creative and imaginative with some risk taking flavour combinations made from fresh local ingredients where ever possible. Quail consommé and dumplings with Scotch egg, celeriac remoulade and hazelnut mayonnaise; fillet of line caught mackerel warm potato salad, slow roasted tomatoes, and basil oil; dark chocolate crème brûlée with sour cherry compote, honeycomb and passion fruit sorbet to name but a few of the delectable delights on the menu. The home baked poppy seed bread is also really rather special and at £27.50 for 2 courses or £32.50 for 3 courses this new restaurant is on a par with some top restaurants but at a fraction of the cost.

The Wheelhouse

One Cornish eatery that is practically impossible to get a table at is The Wheelhouse in Falmouth. Tucked down a tiny slip of an alleyway off Church Street (the main shopping drag) this modest, shellfish joint has been open since late 2009 and has racked up a plethora of rave reviews. The menu is wonderfully simple: mussels, scallops, crab or prawns, lobster and native oysters. Dishes are designed to share; mussels for two come in at £11 and six succulent scallops for £9. To prevent ruining your clothes you get a fetching little apron and a set of crackers with the inevitable mess-making whole crab. The fish is all Cornish, harbour fresh and served in clam like metal dishes with a side of skinny chips, salad and chive butter. The décor is really informal with stripped wood floors, junk shop furniture, candles and fairy lights. All in all a really delightful experience but you absolutely must book in advance, especially if you fancy one of their now famous paella nights which get booked up months in advance.

Porthminster Beach Café in St Ives is already a favourite with the national media and visiting arty types and it’s no surprise as its beach location is second to none with views across St Ives Bay to the Tate Modern. With such a glorious outlook, reasonable prices and informal atmosphere seafood has never tasted so good. Known for its Mediterranean and Asian seafood cuisine some of the produce used in the preparation of the dishes comes direct from the cafe’s garden and the nearby coastal path – look out for the wild mustard, penny wort, nettles, raspberries, wild sorrel and rock samphire to name a few. The café is also open daily for homemade patisserie and excellent coffee from the St Ives Small Batch Coffee Roasting Company.

Gurnard's Head

Possibly the best dining pub in Cornwall, the Gurnard’s Head at Zennor is a firm favourite with us. The location is wonderful, set on a remote bend on the coastal road between Zennor and St Just it feels as though you are stepping into a Poldark novel, especially on a blowy autumn evening. The pub is warm and welcoming with a log fire and well stocked bar boasting some excellent ales, whiskeys, sherries and wines. To the other side of the entrance is the equally warm and comfortable dining area bathed in an atmospheric low light that lends itself to a relaxed and intimate dining experience. As you would expect most of the produce is locally sourced and the food is hearty, refined and packed full of flavour. The short, fresh and seasonal menu changes every day depending on what is brought to the back door or what the chefs feel is at its seasonal best. In Winter you might get Fish Soup with Rouille or in summer, a Ceviche of Sea Bass alongside foraged leaf salads. On colder days you can finish off your meal curled up on a sofa with a sherry or if the summer sun is high in the sky you can sit out in the large garden. With prices ranging from £6.50 for a starter and £12.50-£16.50 for a main The Gurnard’s Head is in our estimation the best value eatery in Cornwall.

It used to be that finding a good curry in Cornwall was an impossible feat… unless you knew about Yak and Yeti in Truro. Thanks to this fantastic restaurant it is possible to sample delicious, flavourful and authentic Nepalese dishes in Cornwall, served up in a friendly environment that’s fast getting a reputation as the best of its kind in the county. They also serve a range of recognisable and excellent Indian dishes but it is the Nepalese dishes that are clearly the star here. The Gurkhali Chicken marinated in a delicately spiced sauce of tomatoes, butter, fresh green chillis, fragrant spices and cooked in a tandoori oven is to die for, as is the chef’s Babari Lamb cooked in a green masala sauce of coriander, mint, green chillies, curry leaves and spices. Delicious and hot! The staff are incredibly friendly, attentive without being overbearing and are more than happy to explain the dishes. There’s a secluded garden which is great to eat in during the summer months.

Cornish pasty (image courtesy of Hammer)

Last but not least we must save a mention for the humble Cornish pasty. With so many oggy makers around the county it’s hard to pick out the best but Sarah’s Pasty Shop in Looe edges ahead. The Sarah in the shop’s name has now retired after more than 20 years but daughter Lucy Taylor has kept it in the family and continues to run the bakery. They turn out deliciously fattening oven-fresh pies and pasties, packed with good quality ingredients, deep flavour. They also do veggie pasties such as spiced chick-pea and lentil, gluten-free, lamb and a breakfast pasty stuffed with bacon, sausage, egg, bean and mushroom. But it’s the traditional pasties the give Sarah’s its high reputation. The pasties are made with juicy chunks of Cornish beef skirt, a bit of peppery swede, wrapped in a rich lardy pastry with a side crimp and come in small, medium and large. For the ultimate taste eat on the beach out of a paper bag, but mind the seagulls!

Once you’ve had your fill of delicious food there’s nothing better than retiring to bed in one of the delightful holiday lodges in Cornwall and dreaming about your next meal.

Note: this post is brought to you in partnership with Hoburne holiday lodges.

Culinary guide to Cornwall is a post from: Velvet Escape travel blog