Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur is a historic part of the city and has always been a vibrant district for as long as I can remember. Growing up in Kuala Lumpur, my school was literally a stone’s throw from Chinatown so I spent quite a bit of time there after school hours, going to the Rex cinema with my friends or eating at one of the many street stalls. On a recent trip to K.L., my sister told me about the many things to see in Chinatown (map), the cool street art, myriad of atmospheric speakeasies and new restaurants, so I knew I had to check it out.
Things to see in Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur
Petaling Street, with its famous street market, lies in the heart of Chinatown and is one of my recommended things to do in Kuala Lumpur. During my stroll around Chinatown, I discovered many more things to see such as a restored alley with gorgeous murals, a repurposed cinema, some excellent cafés and a rooftop bar with stunning views of the Kuala Lumpur skyline. Scroll down to read more about my stroll around Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown.
RexKL
My first stop was RexKL, an arts and culture centre with a cool bookstore, exhibition spaces and various cafés. I have fond memories of Rex as it was a cinema I frequently visited as a child/teenager. I’m really glad that the cinema was repurposed, maintaining much of the original structure and interior.
There are numerous shops, studios and cafés but the highlight is undoubtedly the BookXcess bookstore, which is absolutely photoworthy! RexKL is already a star attraction in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown.
Kwai Chai Hong
Next up was Kwai Chai Hong or ‘Little Demon lane’. This back alley, along with the rows of heritage buildings on both sides, has been beautifully restored and now features gorgeous street art by local artists depicting life in Chinatown in the 1960’s. Situated a short walk from the southern end of the Petaling Street market (map) – the entrance to this back alley can be found near Jalan Balai Polis or you can walk through one of the cafés along Jalan Petaling such as Bubble Bee Café or Da Bao to access the alley. The street art in Kwai Chai Hong alone makes a visit to this back alley more than worthwhile!
Kwai Chai Hong street art
The nostalgic murals in Kwai Chai Hong sure reminded me of my childhood in Malaysia!
Petaling Street
Petaling Street (Jalan Petaling) is famous for its market that sells lots of clothing, accessories and souvenirs. While you’re there, drop by at the Ah Loh’s stall (location) for some delicious peanut pancakes!
From the market, stroll in the direction of the Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Ancestral Hall (a stunning Cantonese heritage building) and you’ll find more interesting alleys, shops, cafés and street art.
Jalan Tun H.S. Lee
Jalan Tun H.S. Lee is another wonderful street in Chinatown to visit. I started at Lai Foong, a Chinese coffeeshop, a KL institution that’s famous for its noodles.
I continued my walk down Jalan Tun H.S. Lee and found lots of cool cafés, independent shops and colourful temples.
Chinatown bars and eateries
There are numerous cafés which have their main entrances on Jalan Petaling whilst their back doors open out into the Kwai Chai Hong alley. One I can recommend is Da Bao, which specialises in bao (steamed buns with a savoury filling). The bao were absolutely delicious! A must-try is the pork bun, a signature recipe. There’s also a colurful bar/restaurant upstairs.
In Jalan Tun H.S. Lee, I dropped by in Warong Old China for a drink. I absolutely loved its ‘old China’ interior.
Another lovely café/restaurant I visited was Chocha Foodstore. Housed in a traditional shophouse building with a beautiful garden courtyard, the restaurant serves fusion Asian cuisine.
Speakeasies
It’s a joy to walk around the streets and lanes of Chinatown and discover the many hidden bars or speakeasies – an adventure in itself to find them! In Kwai Chai Hong, these bars are located on the first floor of some of the shophouses or through partially hidden doorways. Some of the bars open out into the street, such as Crane KL, whilst some are hidden in the back of a shoplot.
Try to find some of these speakeasies such as Da Bao (an easy one to find!), Concubine, PS150 (one of the first speakeasies in the neighbourhood), The Deceased (with an extraordinary horror house theme!) and Shuang Xi.
Join a guided KL Chinatown street art and food/speakeasy tour!
A bar with a VIEW!
I ended my stroll at the nearby Four Points by Sheraton Hotel as I heard of its ‘rooftop bar’ with great views of the Kuala Lumpur skyline. Located on the 7th floor, the JANN Bar isn’t a rooftop bar per sé but it does have terrific views!
Before I left Chinatown, I dropped by in Kwai Chai Hong to see it by night, and I spotted another beautiful mural around the corner.
It sure was a treat to visit Chinatown and see the new developments in the district. If you’re visiting Kuala Lumpur, you definitely do not want to miss Chinatown!
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[…] Alfresco shopping For those who are more into alfresco shopping, head for Petaling Street in Chinatown for souvenirs and the latest (fake) fashion accessories. Don’t forget to bargain furiously! Across the road from Petaling Street, you’ll find the Central Market, another great spot for souvenir-hunters. The Central Market used to be KL’s wet-market but was converted into an artisan’s centre in the eighties. It’s a great place to find beautiful wood carvings, batik prints, songket weaves, paintings, pewter and locally-made fashion accessories. Read more about Chinatown Kuala Lumpur. […]
[…] At the edge of Chinatown, along Jalan Bandar, visit the beautiful Sri Mahamariamman Temple. Completed in 1873, this is the oldest Hindu temple in Kuala Lumpur. Read more about my stroll around Chinatown Kuala Lumpur. […]