Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur is a historic part of the city and has always been a vibrant district for as long as I can remember. Growing up in Kuala Lumpur, my school was literally a stone’s throw from Chinatown so I spent quite a bit of time there after school hours, going to the Rex cinema with my friends or eating at one of the many street stalls. These days, after a metamorphosis that started in the 2010’s, KL’s Chinatown is one of the city’s coolest districts. From cool street art and colourful temples to delicious street food, atmospheric speakeasies and authentic eateries, there are many things to see and do in Chinatown.

Things to see in Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur

Petaling Street, with its famous street market, lies in the heart of Chinatown and is one of my recommended things to do in Kuala Lumpur. During my stroll around Chinatown, I discovered many things to see such as a restored alley with gorgeous murals, a repurposed cinema, some excellent cafés and a rooftop bar with stunning views of the Kuala Lumpur skyline. Scroll down to read more about my stroll around Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown – I’ve included a map below of my Chinatown walking route as well as the places I visited:

RexKL

My first stop was RexKL in Jalan Sultan, an arts and culture centre with a cool bookstore, exhibition spaces and various cafés. I have fond memories of Rex as it was a cinema I frequently visited as a child/teenager. I’m really glad that the cinema was repurposed, maintaining much of the original structure and interior.

There are numerous shops, studios and cafés but the highlight is undoubtedly the BookXcess bookstore, which is absolutely photoworthy! RexKL is already a star attraction in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown.

Pasar Karat street art

Just off Jalan Sultan, you’ll find the Pasar Karat lane with walls full of colourful murals. Walk to the end of the lane and find the spot for a unique photo opportunity:

Read about my stay at the Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur in the Merdeka 118 tower.

Kwai Chai Hong

From RexKL, I continued my walk along Jalan Sultan. Next up was Kwai Chai Hong or ‘Little Demon lane’. This back alley, along with the rows of heritage buildings on both sides, has been beautifully restored and now features gorgeous street art by local artists depicting life in Chinatown in the 1960’s. Situated a short walk from the southern end of the Petaling Street market – the entrance to this back alley can be found near Jalan Balai Polis or you can walk through one of the cafés along Jalan Petaling such as Bubble Bee Café or Da Bao to access the alley. The street art in Kwai Chai Hong alone makes a visit to this back alley more than worthwhile!

Kwai Chai Hong street art

The nostalgic murals in Kwai Chai Hong sure reminded me of my childhood in Malaysia! In the streets surrounding Kwai Chai Hong, you’ll find many more murals.

Petaling Street market

From Kwan Chai Hong, I made my way to Petaling Street (Jalan Petaling), famous for its market that sells lots of clothing, accessories and souvenirs. In the shops behind the vendors are a plethora of eateries and street food stalls. Many Malaysian classics such as nasi lemak, chicken rice, and assam/curry laksa can be found here.

While you’re there, drop by at the Ah Loh’s ‘Apom Balik’ stall (location) for some delicious peanut pancakes!

Petaling Street (Jalan Petaling)

From the market, I continued along Jalan Petaling in the direction of the Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Ancestral Hall (a stunning Cantonese heritage building) and found more interesting alleys, shops, cafés and street art.

Jalan Tun H.S. Lee

Jalan Tun H.S. Lee is another wonderful street in Chinatown to visit. I started at Lai Foong, a Chinese coffeeshop, a KL institution that’s famous for its noodles.

I continued my walk down Jalan Tun H.S. Lee and found lots of cool cafés, independent shops and colourful  temples.

Chinatown bars and eateries

There are numerous cafés which have their main entrances on Jalan Petaling whilst their back doors open out into the Kwai Chai Hong alley. One I can recommend is Da Bao, which specialises in bao (steamed buns with a savoury filling). The bao were absolutely delicious! A must-try is the pork bun, a signature recipe. There’s also a colurful bar/restaurant upstairs.

In Jalan Tun H.S. Lee, drop by at Warong Old China for a meal or just a drink. I absolutely love its ‘old China’ interior.

Another lovely café/restaurant I’ve been to several times is Chocha Foodstore. Housed in a traditional shophouse building with a beautiful garden courtyard, the restaurant serves fusion Asian cuisine. Upstairs is another restobar I can recommend: Upper Deck KL.

Speakeasies

It’s a joy to walk around the streets and lanes of Chinatown. Come back in the evening, like I’ve done numerous times now, and discover the many hidden bars or speakeasies. It’s an adventure in itself to find them! In Kwai Chai Hong, these bars are located on the first floor of some of the shophouses or through partially hidden doorways. 

Try to find some of these speakeasies such as Da Bao (an easy one to find!), Concubine, PS150 (one of the first speakeasies in the neighbourhood), The Deceased (with an extraordinary horror house theme!) and Shuang Xi.

Join a guided KL Chinatown street art and food/speakeasy tour!

A bar with a VIEW!

Last, but not least, the Four Points by Sheraton Hotel has a ‘rooftop bar’ with great views of the Kuala Lumpur skyline. Located on the 7th floor, JANN Bar isn’t a rooftop bar per sé but it does have terrific views!

It’s always a treat to visit Chinatown and see the new developments in the district. If you’re visiting Kuala Lumpur, you definitely do not want to miss Chinatown!

Search for accommodations in Chinatown.

Read other Velvet Escape posts about Kuala Lumpur:

• An afternoon at the KL Bird Park
• Malaysian chic at the Ruma Hotel
• A Grand experience in Kuala Lumpur
• Sunset cocktails at Vertigo