I’ll admit it – Bosnia and Herzegovina wasn’t high on my travel radar. My knowledge of the country was mostly limited to history books and televised moments: the spark that ignited World War I, the unforgettable performance of Torvill and Dean at the 1984 Sarajevo Olympics, and the devastating images from the war-torn ’90s. That was about it. Then, at a tourism networking event in Berlin, I met a friendly local who passionately spoke about his homeland. His enthusiasm was contagious, and a few weeks later, I found myself planning a Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary. What unfolded was a week of awe-inspiring discoveries: charming towns, majestic landscapes, and some of the most welcoming people I’ve ever met.

My one-week Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary

For this first-time trip, I based myself in Sarajevo and explored the rest of the country through day tours with Meet Bosnia Tours, who hosted me on this trip. This setup offered the perfect balance: time to immerse myself in the capital whilst also venturing out to experience the country’s diverse regions. The guides enriched each tour with powerful stories, historical insights and a local’s perspective I never could’ve found on my own. These are the places I visited as day trips from Sarajevo:

Here’s how my Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary unfolded:

• Day 1: Arrival in Sarajevo

• Day 2: Sarajevo walking tour and Siege of Sarajevo tour

• Day 3: Day trip to Herzegovina: Mostar, Kravice Waterfall, Blagaj, Počitelj and Konjic

• Day 4: Day trip to Višegrad, and Drvengrad and Šargan 8 Train in Serbia

• Day 5: Sarajevo food and crafts tour

• Day 6: Day trip to Central Bosnia: Travnik and Jajce

• Day 7: Sarajevo morning markets and departure

Day 1: First impressions of Sarajevo

Touching down in Sarajevo, I was greeted by Edin from Meet Bosnia Tours, who became both my guide and my window into the soul of this country. As we drove into the city – through what’s known as Sniper Alley, once one of the most dangerous streets in the world – he pointed out the mountain ridges, where Serbian militia once stood, and bullet-riddled apartment blocks, and shared somber reflections on Sarajevo’s past. The war may be decades behind, but its physical and emotional scars remain visible.

I checked into a charming apartment in the city centre, an ideal base for my adventures. That afternoon, I strolled through Stari Grad, Sarajevo’s Old Town, where East truly meets West. One minute I was walking through Ottoman-era stone alleys lined with copperware shops and mosques, the next I was surrounded by Austro-Hungarian grandeur.

I found a small café in the Ottoman quarter, ordered a local beer, and let the atmosphere wash over me. Something in the air, perhaps the blend of history, cultures and warm hospitality, told me this would be a trip to remember.

Day 2: Sarajevo, stories and survival

My morning began with a guided walking tour through Sarajevo’s layered past – Meet Bosnia offers both free Sarajevo walking tours as well as ticketed tours (in smaller groups). Our guide wove together stories of empires, rebels and war survivors as we meandered through the vibrant Baščaršija bazaar, stood on the Latin Bridge, stopped at the spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914, and paused at grand buildings echoing Austro-Hungarian elegance.

The multicultural heart of Sarajevo was unlike anything I’d experienced: mosques, churches, and synagogues coexisting within a few minutes’ walk; a quiet yet powerful testament to its diversity. It’s not surprising that Sarajevo is often called the “Jerusalem of Europe”.

Siege of Sarajevo and Fall of Yugoslavia tour

In the afternoon, I joined the Siege of Sarajevo tour. The city endured the longest siege in modern history – 1,425 days – and the tour didn’t shy away from this brutal chapter. We drove through Sniper Alley, and visited the Tunnel of Hope (a tunnel built by the Bosnians under the airport runway to smuggle goods and people), the Yellow Fortress and the remnants of the Olympic bobsleigh track, now eerily reclaimed by nature and graffiti. Despite the heaviness, there was a quiet sense of resilience in every stop, a reminder of how deeply Sarajevo had suffered and how bravely it had survived.

That evening, I found comfort in a plate of ćevapi (Bosnian minced meat fingers) and grilled sausages at Ćevabdžinica Nune, a humble local spot filled with laughter, family pictures and the unmistakable warmth of Bosnian hospitality.

Day 3: Day trip to Herzegovina

As I gazed out of the van window, streaks of sunshine peeked through, but dark clouds loomed ahead. Still, the shifting sky did little to dull my excitement. Today, I was on my way to see the Old Bridge of Mostar – a place I first glimpsed as a child in an encyclopedia, its graceful arch etched into my memory ever since.

The journey from Sarajevo to Herzegovina was nothing short of spectacular. Our guide filled us in on the origins of the country’s name – Bosnia and Herzegovina, a union of two geographic and cultural regions: Bosnia to the north, lush and forested; and Herzegovina to the south, a more arid, stony terrain edged by the warmth of the Mediterranean.

Neretva Canyon

As we passed through tunnels carved into the towering mountains, I watched the landscape subtly shift. The thick greenery of Bosnia gave way to the rugged cliffs and shrubby mountains of Herzegovina. Then came the Neretva Canyon – a stunning natural corridor where jade-green waters slice through craggy mountains. It’s one of those drives that makes you forget everything else and just stare in quiet awe.

Počitelj, Blagaj Tekke and Konjic

We made several stops along the way. First, Počitelj, an Ottoman-era village clinging to the slope, its stone towers watching over the river. Then came Blagaj Tekke, a serene 16th century Dervish monastery built at the base of a cliff, right beside the turquoise spring of the Buna River – a place that felt almost surreal in its stillness. And in Konjic, we paused to admire its elegant 17th-century Ottoman bridge.

Kravice Waterfalls

Another highlight of this Mostar day trip was our visit to the Kravice Waterfalls, a series of cascading falls nestled in a lush, green bowl. We sat down to a delicious lunch, with the sound of rushing water in the background and a postcard view right in front of us.

Mostar

Our luck with the weather held for most of the day, but as we approached Mostar, the skies finally gave in. Rain came down in sheets!

Still, nothing could stop me from crossing that bridge. Armed with an umbrella and some determination, I wandered through the slick cobblestone alleys of Mostar’s old town, eventually stepping onto the famous Stari Most. Destroyed during the Bosnian War, this 16th century Ottoman-era bridge was lovingly rebuilt and reopened in 2004. The rain had cleared the crowds, and for a brief, magical moment, I had the entire bridge to myself.

Mostar was meant to be the crown jewel of the day, but the unrelenting rain cut our visit short. As we made the decision to head back, I looked back at the bridge, glistening in the downpour, and made myself a quiet promise: next time, I’ll return by train and stay the night. I’ve heard the rail journey from Sarajevo to Mostar is among the most scenic in the country – and now, I have every reason to go back!

Day 4: Day trip to Višegrad & Drvengrad (Serbia) 

One of the more intriguing day trips from Sarajevo led me eastward to Visegrad and into Serbia’s Mokra Gora Nature Park, nestled in the Zlatibor region. Thankfully, I had read the tour details carefully and brought my passport, an essential for this cross-border trip. As we made our way toward the eastern frontier, our guide offered a thoughtful overview of the political geography. This part of Bosnia, near the Serbian border, belongs to Republika Srpska, one of the two constitutional entities that make up modern-day Bosnia and Herzegovina, a legacy of the Dayton Agreement that brought peace in 1995.

The road from Sarajevo to Višegrad unfolded like a scenic ribbon through the Romanija mountains, before opening up to a vast plateau brimming with forests and farms. The drive through the majestic Drina River gorge, with its emerald waters framed by sheer cliffs and scattered with nearly 50 tunnels, was one of the most visually arresting of my Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary. 

Višegrad

Perched at the confluence of the Drina and Rzav Rivers, Višegrad is a town both beautiful and deeply scarred. Our guide spoke candidly about the harrowing events that took place here during the war, many of which hit close to home for him. It was a somber but important reminder of the resilience of this country.

Višegrad’s enduring symbol is its magnificent Old Bridge, built in 1577 under the command of Grand Vizier Mehmed Pasha Sokolović and designed by Mimar Sinan, the legendary Ottoman architect. With 11 elegant arches spanning the emerald Drina, this UNESCO World Heritage site inspired Nobel Laureate Ivo Andrić’s novel The Bridge on the Drina. Standing there in person, it wasn’t hard to see why.

A short stroll away lies Andrićgrad (Andrić Town), a cultural complex of stone-paved lanes, theaters, cafés, and museums that pays tribute to the writer’s legacy. We paused here for lunch before continuing to the Serbian border.

Dobrun Monastery

Just before crossing into Serbia, we paused at the Dobrun Monastery, a 14th-century Orthodox sanctuary nestled along the Rzav River. With a backdrop of forested slopes, its fresco-covered chapel was a gorgeous sight.

Šargan Eight Railway

Crossing into Serbia was quick and easy that day. Not long after, we arrived at one of the day’s highlights: the historic Šargan Eight Railway. Built in 1925, this narrow-gauge railway is a feat of engineering, winding up the mountain in a figure-eight loop through tunnels and over stone bridges. The vintage train chugged past sleepy hamlets, misty pine forests, and through numerous tunnels.

Drvengrad (Wooden Town)

A short drive from the train station brought us to Drvengrad, also known as Kustendorf, a whimsical ethno-village conceived by acclaimed filmmaker Emir Kusturica as a set for his movie Life is a Miracle. Built almost entirely of wood, the village is now a living hommage to Serbian tradition, complete with a church, gallery and cinema. It’s also the venue for the annual Kustendorf Film Festival, which draws cinephiles from around the world.

Our final stop of the day was the serene Church of St. John the Baptist, hidden deep in the Bele Vode forest, beside a cascade and a spring said to have healing properties. Locals swear by its water, especially for eye ailments, so I gave it a try. I can’t say my vision improved, but it certainly added a fun, folkloric twist to the day!

Day 5: Sarajevo’s Flavours and Crafts

After a string of immersive day trips from Sarajevo, I opted for a slower pace and stayed in the capital. I spent the morning strolling through Sarajevo’s Austro-Hungarian district before joining a Food and Crafts walking tour.

We popped into family-run bakeries tucked into winding alleys and sampled local bites, from flaky börek to syrupy sweets. At a traditional café, our guide showed us how to pour and drink Bosnian coffee the proper way, an art in itself.

Beyond food, the tour introduced us to Sarajevo’s artisans. We visited traditional workshops where copper coffee pots and intricately patterned trays were made by hand, using methods passed down through generations. We also popped into shops selling handwoven carpets and custom-made slippers.

That afternoon, I indulged in a traditional hammam experience at the Isa Begov Hamam Hotel, a beautifully restored hotel/hammam near the Latin Bridge. After days of walking and sightseeing, the steam and scrub left me feeling completely renewed. I’ve tried hammams in Morocco, Jordan and Turkey, and this one ranks among the best hammam experiences, especially because of the welcoming and skilled staff!

Day 6: Day trip to Central Bosnia – Travnik and Jajce

With my energy replenished, I ventured out on the final adventure of my Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary: a day trip from Sarajevo to Central Bosnia, a region brimming with charm, history, and pristine nature. The drive westward once again took us through lush forests and lofty mountains. Bosnia never stops impressing with its natural beauty!

Travnik

Our first stop was Travnik, a picturesque town that once served as the seat of Ottoman viziers. Birthplace of Ivo Andrić, the town is cradled between mountains and features a gorgeous blend of Islamic and medieval architecture.

Travnik is overlooked by a medieval fortress, with numerous mosques and historic madrassas (Islamic schools). At the edge of the old town flows the Plava Voda or Blue Water river. It’s a lovely part of the town, with gentle cascades and riverside cafés.

We climbed to the Travnik Fortress, which rewarded us with panoramic views of the town and surrounding hills.

Down below, the Painted Mosque dazzled with its vibrantly decorated interiors, a rarity even within Bosnia. Just beneath it, we paused at Vezirov Dućan, a charming café under the mosque, where I ordered a Bosnian coffee. The café owner watched me pour and smiled, “That’s perfect – just like a local!” Clearly, my lesson the day before had paid off and I beamed with pride.

Jajce

Our journey continued to Jajce, a storybook town famous for its natural and historical landmarks. Before reaching the old town, we visited the serene Pliva Lakes. The lakes glistened, in shades of jade and emerald, in the afternoon sun. We crossed the Bridge of Love and wandered through Mlinčići, a photogenic collection of 16th-century watermills perched above cascading falls.

In Jajce itself, we explored the hilltop medieval castle, which offered beautiful views of the town. We then strolled down to the old town through cobbled alleys, passing the Church of St. Mary, where Bosnia’s last king was crowned in the 15th century, and the medieval Bear Tower.

We ended the day at one of Bosnia’s most iconic natural landmarks: the Pliva Waterfall, where the river tumbles 18 meters into the Vrbas River, right in the heart of the old town. It was a picture-perfect conclusion to my Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary.

Day 7: Sarajevo markets and departure

It was my last day in Bosnia, and as my flight from Sarajevo was in the afternoon, I decided to spend the morning visiting two of Sarajevo’s most famous markets. 

Pijaca Markale

My first stop was Pijaca Markale, Sarajevo’s vibrant central market. Beneath its yellow awnings and overflowing crates of produce, the market buzzed with life.

Yet, as I wandered past the food stalls, I couldn’t shake a somber thought. This cheerful place, so full of colour and vitality, was also the site of one of the most horrific events of the Bosnian War. During the siege of Sarajevo, the market was shelled multiple times, attacks which killed dozens of civilians. Standing there, I thought of the lives lost, and how the market today serves not only as a place of commerce but also as a symbol of Sarajevo’s enduring spirit. That contrast – the weight of history against the rhythm of daily life – is something I felt often during my week in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Gradska Tržnica Markale

Just a short stroll from the open-air market, I made my way to Gradska Tržnica, Sarajevo’s historic indoor market hall. I had passed it on my first day in the city and mistook its elegant Austro-Hungarian façade for a concert hall. When my walking tour guide casually mentioned it was a food market, I knew I had to return.

Built in 1895 during the Austro-Hungarian period, the Gradska Tržnica was a marvel of its time, featuring Sarajevo’s first steel-girder roof. Over a century later, it still functions as a bustling local market. Inside, it’s cool and echoey, with neatly arranged stalls offering everything from fresh fruits to meats, cheeses and artisanal treats.

The vendors were welcoming and generous, offering me slices of smoked meats and samples of cheese with a smile. It felt more like a neighbourhood gathering spot than a commercial space.

Alas, it was time to leave. This trip began as a chance encounter but became one of the most fascinating and surprising experiences of my travels. If you’re searching for a Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary that offers depth, diversity, and discovery at every turn, this week-long journey is a perfect place to start.

Note: my one-week Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary was made possible by Meet Bosnia Tours. As always, all opinions above are mine.