Morella is a medieval town in the province of Castell贸n in Spain, approximately 180 km north of the city of Valencia. There are few walled towns around the world (Carcassonne in France, Dubrovnik in Croatia and Diyarbakir in Turkey are classic examples that spring to mind) that can match the magnificence of Morella. As you approach Morella (map), one can’t help but be impressed by the massive walls and imposing towers that protect the town. The Morella castle sits proudly atop the hill. It is an unforgettable sight.

The impressive walls of Morella.

What to see in Morella

We entered the town through the stunning Sant Miquel gate, with its striking twin towers. I didn’t have much knowledge of the history of Morella but walking through this gate, it was clear that this heavily-fortified town was an important centre centuries ago that must’ve seen many a war. Our guide was quick to affirm this. Many of the ancient powers occupied this town at some stage; from the Greeks and the Carthaginians, to the Romans and the Moors. The town played a pivotal role during the Napoleonic Wars and the Spanish Civil War, and helped shape the course of the history of Spain.

The aqueduct just outside the town walls.
sant miquel gate morella photo
Sant Miquel Gate

Nowadays, the town is a serene place that begs to be explored. There are many things to see and do in Morella, as I soon discovered. Inside the walls are a labyrinth of streets, lined by charming houses with their characteristic hanging balconies and gorgeous buildings in a multitude of styles, ranging from Romanesque to Gothic.

Culinary delights

As we walked along the cobblestone streets, the first thing I noticed were the quaint shops selling all kinds of local produce.

A street in Morella.
A shop selling local produce.

The sight of dozens of sausage varieties, olive oils, honey, cheese, wines and my absolute favourite, black truffles, made my mouth water. I took my time exploring the shops and savouring the scents of cured meats and cheese. Striking up a conversation with the shop owner was easy enough (I don’t speak Spanish but food is a universal language isn’t it? 馃檪 ) and I found myself going from one tasting to another: chorizo, honey, jams, cheese, truffles and olive oil. It was absolutely delightful.

Cheese and meats at a deli.
Morella honey

We soon discovered that Morella is a true culinary paradise that takes its inspiration from the large variety of local produce. Dishes that Morella is especially famous for include ‘ternasco’ (Morellan leg of lamb), ‘gallina trufada’ (truffled hen!), ‘perdiu en escabetx’ (marinated partridge) and various wild mushrooms. We stopped for lunch at Restaurante Casa Roque, a lunch I won’t easily forget!

I had these mushrooms sprinkled with truffles. So good!
Followed by a local home-made stew. YUM!

Architectural treasures

I wandered along the main street, Blasco de Alag贸n, and soaked up the lovely atmosphere. The town elders sat under the arches of ancient arcades chatting boisterously while enjoying a coffee and a cigar; vendors showed off their produce of the day on rickety wooden tables; and day-trippers filled their bags with sausages, cheeses and wines.

Blasco de Alag贸n road.

The Romanesque-style houses and the Gothic fa莽ades of the historic buildings, such as the Ajuntament (Town Hall), were especially striking. Elegant staircases led up and down from the Blasco de Alag贸n, offering beautiful vistas of the castle atop the hill or the verdant valley below.

A beautiful staircase in Morella.

We stepped into the Gothic cloister of the Convent of Sant Francesc, a serene oasis with a stunning view of the castle high above.

Convent of Sant Francesc

The main road wound its way gradually to the Archpriest’s Church of Santa Maria la Major. This architectural jewel has two portals and a striking blue dome. Once inside, I was completely bowled over by the impressive spiral staircase, the church organ and the breathtaking gold-gilded alter-piece.

The Church of Santa Maria de la Major
A stunning spiral staircase inside the church.
The stunning alter-piece
The amazing gold ceiling above the alter-piece.

From the Archpriest’s church, several lanes wind their way further up the hill to the castle. It’s a steep climb but the panorama of the surrounding hills and valleys is certainly worth the effort.

Morella is absolutely worth a day-trip, or longer, from the coast or from Valencia. The easiest option is to hire a rental car so you can explore more of the surrounding region as well. If you visit Morella, make sure you plan sufficient time for a meal in one of the many restaurants or mes贸n to experience authentic Morellan cuisine.

Read about things to do in Valencia.



19 Responses

  • Hi Jackie,
    That’s so cool! Morella is such an impressive town and I absolutely loved my visit! Thanks for your comment! 馃檪


  • Hi Keith,
    Hope all is good. 馃檪 I was just checking that our blog still comes up on top for Morella Spain, and I spotted your post. I had no idea you had been here, although it is quite a while back now. It’s an amazing spot, isn’t it? 馃檪
    Have a lovely weekend,

  • Hi Keith, Thanks so much for this post. I麓m planing go to the Valencia next September and after to see your pictures i decided visiting Morella. Augusto ( Brazil)

  • […] to our RSS feed. Thanks for visiting!Partner blog Velvet Escape points out the benefits of visiting Morella in Castell贸n, north of Valencia. Morella’s castle dominating the town from the hill above is the type of vision that’ll […]

  • Hi Jan,
    I remember seeing those tarts in the window but didn’t explore further. Sorry!


  • Hi Velvet – I have just returned from a week spent close to Morella — I visited the town on the recommendation of a local!

    Can you (or any of your foody chums) through any light on the awesome nutty tarts sold in the bakers?


  • Qu茅 bonito esta ciudad! Y me gusta mucho las otras tus aventuras de Valencia tambi猫n! Pero greo que es mejor de estudiar un pocito de espa帽ol o la lingua Catalana? I should practise more too I guess….Lovely adventures again Keith!

  • Thanks Sonya! I can certainly recommend a visit to Morella. It’s still pretty much off the beaten path in Castillon and is an absolute gem.


  • Keith, I’ve really enjoyed your recent adventures in Spain! Morella, Spain sounds like a must-see place.

  • Hi Keith,
    Thanks for introducing me to Morella. Never heard of this place before, but now, as a travel and food blogger, I am interested in this beautiful foodie town. The architecture is just awesome! Love the fortification, the church cloisters, and the meandering streets! Just stunning!

  • Hi Andy,
    You would’ve loved the hike to the top of the castle. LOL! 馃檪


  • Looks lovely Keith. Thanks for sharing! This is my kind of place. Right, that’s it. I’m going to have to go back to Valencia 馃檪

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